Carburetor replacement on Suzuki Eiger 400 LT-F

Step by step how to remove and replace bad carb that caused sputtering and Popping and bogging when trying to accelerate, would idle fine but wouldn't rev under load.

Usually caused by a bad float or blocked passage inside the carb. (Be sure to make sure fuel pepcock is working as it should, these machines are notorious for the diaphragm inside the pepcock to go bad... I replaced the one in this 4wheeler to rule it out is the equation with another pepcock that has an off feature Yamaha part number 21V-24500-20-00 which there is a number of videos on using this pepcock on these machines.)

You can rebuild a carb instead of replacing it with a new one, in this instance it was cost effective to get a new one for 90$ rather than pay 40$ for a rebuild kit and run the risk of missing something.