Van Floor Insulation for Canada // E03 // DIY Micro Camper Van 2.0

Description Below...

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Episode 1 (design & concept):    • Micro-Camper Van Concept & Layout // ...  
Episode 2 (insulating the roof and soundproofing walls):    • Van Insulation for Roof & Walls with ...  
Episode 3 (insulating the floor, sub-floor, electrical prep):    • Van Floor Insulation for Canada // E0...  
Episode 4 (structure and DIY rock and roll bed):    • DIY Aluminum Rock-n-Roll bed Part 1 /...  
Episode 5: COMING SOON!
Episode 6 (tour of completed camper van):    • Sexiest BUDGET MINI-CAMPER Ever! // V...  
Episode 7 (vinyl flooring and prep for diesel/petrol furnace):    • Installing Heater and Luxury Vinyl Fl...  
Episode 8 (an overnight in Banff National Park): COMING SOON!
Episode 9 (diesel heater on a -48°C night):    • URBAN STEALTH in COLDEST place on ear...  
Episode 10 (unboxing chinese diesel heater):    • Unboxing a Chinese Diesel Heater // E...  

Want to DIY your own rock-n-roll bed? Or build your van interior structure? Or build pretty much anything? Watch as I explain how I use 80/20 extruded aluminum to fabricate a rock-n-roll bed that not only converts to seat 4 (including 2 rear facing rumble-seat style seats). This material is like Mechano but on steroids. You can literally create anything, with basic wood working tools - although I'd recommend renting or buying a chop saw with a good blade because it will make your cuts look much nicer.

Did I miss something in the video? Let me know what you'd like to see in the comments and I can add it to my future videos!

As promised in the video, here are some links about 80/20. I used the 10 series (1"), but would likely use the 20 series next time (20mm) as it was smaller, cheaper, and probably strong enough for what I needed. Chinese manufacturers don't make fasteners for the Imperial profiles, but I found that the 20 Series fasteners were close enough to work perfectly with the 10 Series profile. (NOTE: 10 (1") and 15 (1.5") series are Imperial, and all the rest are metric)

Where to buy it: https://8020.net/

Inexpensive Fasteners on AliExpress:
DROP IN T-NUTS (finicky, but can be placed in a closed t-slot): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32847...
SLIDE IN T-NUTS (more solid/easier to use, but must slide in an open end): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32890...
CORNER BRACKETS (I used the 2028 size): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33041...
END SPRING FASTENER (used with an end tap, shown in upcoming video, stay tuned!): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32869...
HINGES (shown in upcoming video, stay tuned!): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33026...

WARNING!!! Stay away from these! While they may look cool and seem to be easy to use, don't get sucked in. They are junk, have very little structural integrity, and seemed to come loose with very little movement in the structure: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32820...

For bolts, I was able to find everything I needed for a great price locally (called Edmonton Nut and Bolt). Buy everything by 50 or 100, you'll regret having to make another trip or wait 4 weeks for an order to come in from China! My only advice when buying bolts: make sure you can properly torque the bolts without them touching the bottom of the t-slot. There is about 2-3mm play between a bolt that is too short (and therefore a PITA) and too long (making it touch the bottom before the t-nut is properly torqued).

I also started with black steel bolts, but would recommend stainless steel so it doesn't react with the aluminum. For most of the bolts I used a Socket Head, but eventually switched to a Cap Head EXCEPT where I used an end tap with the end spring fastener (video to come).

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What kind of insulation does a van need for the floor? Very little from what I've found. After sleeping in -45°C weather, I've discovered that your floor is one of the last places you are losing heat. First, the windows are the biggest source of heat loss, followed by your roof (see episode 2:    • Van Insulation for Roof & Walls with ...  ). Third is your walls and last, your floor. I'd recommend something simple, 1/2" of pulystyrene or less and 1/4" of plywood. That thickness of plywood is meaty enough that you can screw anything to it (unless you need an anchor, then you need to go through the metal) and it resists the potential for a puncture from anything you can throw at it. Feel free to go thicker, but it's money and weight you can save for something more important.