Rock climbing on the Salt River, AZ

In this video I climbed B.Y.O.B (bring your own brush) rated 5.10 and Black Pearl rated 5.9.

The rock here is pretty soft and since this was my first time climbing here I was happy to be on top rope. Many thanks to Scott Duemler and Aaron Collins for “showing me the ropes”.

Coon Bluff along the Salt River has been a popular destination for recreation for decades. The name goes back to 1919 when a group of Boy Scouts cooked up a racoon for their parents and told them it was pork - just for laughs. In addition to boating, fishing, swimming, hiking, birdwatching, and other activities, rappelling has also been popular from the eastern side of the bluff. Over the years, little climbing development has occurred - likely due to the soft rock. A couple lines have existed on the east facing portion of the bluff, as top ropes (see River Runner and Up and Away) and also a bolted face. More recent development is on the downstream portion of the North facing wall, which tower above the waterline and provide amazing scenery, and cool water as well. The following pertains to those routes. 
I was attracted to this area initially after seeing it while kayaking down the river in years prior. Downstream of the routes (in what I refer to as the cave area) cliff swallows build their mud nests and their acrobatic displays are always entertaining. I hesitated in viewing the bluff as a climbing destination, partly because of its popularity with recreationists and partly because the rock is so soft. Once I discovered that the lower, downstream reaches of the bluff are quieter, cleaner, and much less popular than the upper recreation area, I began to explore further. I spent many days with old climbing shoes traversing just above the water, dropping into the water when tired or hot. Lap after lap I learned the possibilities of the rock. Due to the north by northeast exposure of the wall, it remains tolerable even in the heat of summer. The water, drawn from the bottom of saguaro lake a few miles upstream, flows chilly during the hottest months. I began staying later into the evenings, noticing that afternoons get quieter as the boat traffic decreases. The sun sets just left of the cave and the sky colors change. Eventually bats replace the birds and a peace comes over the river.
It is not uncommon to see wild horses emerge downstream and I have also seen bald eagles in the area. Even river otters have been seen here!
While the setting here is inspiring, the rock is not. It is a slurry of volcanic ash, cemented together with rhyolite and pieces of older rock strewn in the mess. If at times you are convinced the rock feels solid - you are deluding yourself. Climbing here comes with a list of warnings:
1. Helmets are mandatory - for the climber yes but even more important for the belayer.
2. Rattlesnakes are seen here frequently. The can be found hiding around boulders and brush and difficult to see until you are upon them. The denizens of the desert are kind enough to warn, but deadly enough to kill. 
3. The holds are often friable so pull down, not out.
4. Because the rock is in a neverending process of succumbing to gravity, it is often dirty from the decay of weaker brethren above so bringing a brush here to climb with is a good idea.
Actual conversation between myself and idealistic climber-
Me: These routes took a lot of cleaning before they were climbable. 
Climber: But they cleaned up well?
Me: No
Climber: But after some traffic they'll clean up.
Me: Also no.
Despite the high choss factor, the climbs are very enjoyable and varied. Bolts are all glue-ins with comfortable spacing. Come here foe the climbing, yes, but also take time to appreciate the beauty. Bring a picnic, go for a swim, take in nature, and enjoy the sunset.
Location:
Park in the Coon Bluff Recreation Area parking. You'll need a tonto pass for your vehicle. There are two ways to get there. One is a short hike. Walk from the parking area and head to where the bluff meets the river. You'll come to a fence. Go through a gate then go left. A trail will appear and follow the river downstream, between wall and water. Multiple trails develop like a poorly spun spider web but i tend to stay on paths on the higher, cliff-side. The trail will end where rock meets water. You can scramble about 25 feet on ledges past Anniversary Rock (semi-submerged boulder in the river) and you'll come to the larger ledges at the bottom of many climbs. 
As a fun and more adventurous option you can pack your things in a dry pack or put your gear on a tube and just float to Anniversary Rock. You can put in just past where you go thru the gate. Its refreshing and fun. Then you can do the walk back when you're done climbing. Approach by hike, 5 minutes, approach by water, even faster, and more enjoyable on a summer day.

Info pulled from,

Rock Climbing in Coon Bluff, Central Arizona