BMW R Nine T Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This video describes the steps for replacing the rear brake pads on a BMW R Nine T. I'm working on a 2017 Scrambler.

Caution: don't operate the rear brake while you're performing this procedure. What happens is you'll push the caliper pistons out and it's somewhat difficult to push them back in, but not impossible. Just save yourself the trouble and don't touch the rear brakes.

Here are the tools:
Fresh set of brake pads https://www.wunderlichamerica.com/Mot...
Small pry bar for my license plate bracket
Copper-based grease
Silicone based grease
Hammer
Needle nose pliers
Steel punch
Small wire cutters for zip ties
Ratchet
Torque wrench

My set up is just a little different from stock. I'm using this license plate bracket (BAAK) that uses the threads for the stock Torx bolts, but the rest of the procedure should be the same. You won't need a bike stand for this, or need to remove the wheel. Just your bike's side stand.

1. Start by removing the R clip from the pad pin using needle nose pliers. Pull up.
2. Then partially drive the pin out using a punch and hammer. 
3. Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts. Mine are a 6mm hex. Your's will likely be the Torx. 
4. Once you've got the bolts removed, lift up and slide the caliper off of the disc.
5. Withdraw the pad pin and remove the brake pads. Mine are pretty worn. The rear brake pads tend to wear out pretty quickly. This is already my third time replacing them.
6. With the caliper off, I'm going to clean it up with some soapy water and a rag. I'm hesitant to use brake cleaner as there's a possibility that it could remove paint. The pad spring can also come out for a cleaning.
7. Pull the caliper and bracket apart and wipe that down as well.
8. Visually inspect all the rubber components and check for rips, cracks, or wear. 
9. After cleaning up the caliper, bracket and pad spring, apply some silicone based grease to the slider pins and reassemble the caliper.
10. Use your fingers to push the caliper pistons back to make room for the new pads.
11. When you're reinstalling the pad spring, it has to be oriented in the right direction. Note the small triangle shaped arrow on it should be pointing towards the front of the bike when you reinstall it.  
12. Smear some copper-based grease onto the pad pin and have that ready. Put in the new brake pads, making sure that the tabs on the brake pads point toward the front of the bike and resting on the small shelf. You'll see what I mean when you do this service. And the side of the brake pads with the holes should be pointed toward the rear of the bike as that is where the pad pin will need to pass through. 
13. Slide the pad pin in and just finger tight. If you can, try to align the pin so that the hole for the R clip is facing up.
14. Next reinstall the brake caliper starting with sliding the disc in between your newly installed pads. 

Note: I had to loosen the rear brake master cylinder to reduce the pressure on the piston. And when I pushed the piston back into the caliper, a little bit of brake fluid overflowed, which is what I wanted, because that gave me the needed room. For me this was ok, because I had added brake fluid to the reservoir some months back when the brakes were wearing down.

15. Button everything back together. The torque specs for the caliper mounting bolts are 28 Nm or roughly 20.5 ft/lbs
16. Then come back around to the other side and use the punch and hammer again to set the pad pin. 
17. And replace the R clip.

So again this is a fairly straightforward job. Not too many surprises. The toughest part was getting the caliper back on and creating enough gap between the pads for the disc. Alright, good luck and ride safe out there. Thanks for watching.