5 SKINCARE ACIDS | How to use, recommended brands, explained by dermatologist

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Skin acids are a group of molecules that can help a myriad of skin conditions.

ALPHA hydroxy acids
AHAs include lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic & citric acid. Glycolic acid is derived from sugarcane, lactic acid can be found in sour milk (oldest peel), whilst citric acid is derived from fruits; hence the blanket name of ‘fruit peels’. (For those who love organic skin care)

Uses: Glycolic acid can be useful in the management of acne, blackheads, whiteheads. BHA are better as salicylic acid is both anti-inflammatory and oil soluble. AHAs can be useful in the management of sun damage, wrinkles, pigmentation & as a primer to aid delivery of other acids, & actives like retinol- retinoids.

Concentrations: 2-30%, creams, gels, lotions, washes. Start slow, increase as tolerated.

Careful: If you have rosacea, sensitive skin, dermatitis


Azelaic acid
This is an organic acid found in wheat, barley and rye, however this acid is manufactured in a lab environment

Works by 1.Killing bacteria 2. Keratolytic 3. Reduces pigmentation - tyrosinase inhibitor 4. Anti-inflammatory

Uses - Acne, rosacea, pigmentation.

Concentrations: Typically 5-15/20%. Concentrations less than 15% are less irritating cf higher concentrations.

Careful: High concentrations. Most benign acid to use. Good for inflamed skin, acne in pregnancy, mild rosacea, some forms of pigmentation (melasma).


Ascorbic acid
Also known as Vitamin C. pH 2.5-3.5 for highest bioavailability. Potential to cause skin irritation in higher concentrations.

Works by
Antioxidants reduce UV induced DNA damage. Free radical scavenger
Anti-pigment works as a tyrosinase inhibitor
Stimulation of fibroblasts to produce dermal collagen
Caution: Sensitive skin, rosacea. For patients who have this skin type, start at 10% and SLOWLY increase as tolerated.


Retinoid acid
Vitamin A derivative. Arguably the most beneficial skin care active as prescribed by physicians & dermatologists.

Works by 1.Decreasing sebum or oil 2.Anti-inflammatory 3.Anti -bacterial 4. Helps normalize skin shedding 5.Reduces wrinkles by stimulating collagen production.

Caution: sensitive skin, titrate accordingly.

How to start? Retinol over retinoids unless prescribed by your doctor. Typical retinol concentrations range from 0.5 to 2.0%.

Kojic Acid
Is widely used in Asia to improve skin clarity, by reducing pigmentation. This acid is a naturally occurring compound derived from #fungus. (Obviously purified so don't worry, your face won’t be taken over by fungi).

Mode of action: Tyrosinase inhibitor, decreasing #melanin production.

Clinical application: Melasma, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, brown sunspots.

Best applied: At night. If tolerated twice a day. As with all prescription skin care, start slowly, increase as tolerated.

How to use: Best compounded by a pharmacist and prescribed by a dermatologist. Ideally Kojic acid works best with combination therapy.

Caution: Kojic acid has a high sensitizing potential and hence used in caution in patients with sensitive skin, or inflammatory skin conditions such as #eczema, and seb #dermatitis

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Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist, Brisbane.
Australia

Disclaimer: I am a procedural dermatologist, my work consists of surgery, injections, lasers & scary peels- procedures. Skin care advice is given as a general maintenance post procedure or in the context of treating conditions whereby topicals are indicated- example melasma. For topical monotherapy, consider seeing a general practitioner or general dermatologist.