DIY: Ford Ranger 2wd Front Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement

Video tutorial on how to replace the front brakes on a Ford Ranger 2wd with no ABS. This video does not include the full details on how to replace the wheel bearing. Your vehicle may or may not require the rotors to be replaced. Instead of buying new rotors, you can also have them resurfaced which will remove any warpage or surface damage. Resurfacing rotors are normally cheaper than buying new rotors, but they are not as durable as they are a thinner material and will be affected by heat quicker. This particular tutorial was done on a 1998 Ford Ranger regular cab short box 2wd.

DIY: Ford Ranger 2wd Front Wheel Bearing Replacement:    • DIY: Ford Ranger 2wd Front Wheel Bear...  

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-jack
-axle stand
-large interlocking pliers
-pliers
-johnson/breaker bar
-15mm socket
-13mm socket
-24mm socket
-ratchet
-hammer
-wheel bearing grease
-wire brush
-new replacement brake pads
-new replacement rotors
-two cotter pins
-degreaser
-abrasive pad
-rotor cleaner (used in the video is Permatex Brake Cleaning Wipes #26629)
-thread locker (used in the video is Permatex Medium Strength Blue Threadlocker Gel #24215)

Procedure:
start by elevating the side you will be starting with safely and then remove the wheel
-crack the cap of the master cylinder to prevent any pressure build up when we push the pistons back in the caliper
-remove the two 13mm bolts which hold on the caliper, they are located on the backside
-using larger interlocking pliers, pinching on the mounting bolt location and the carrier to push the pistons back into place
-remove the caliper and place it on top of the upper control arm, then use either a soft wire or bungie cord to tie it into place
-remove the brake pads
-sometimes they will come out on their own or need a little assistance using a hammer
-if you are keeping the rotors, be careful not to damage the rotors
-in order to remove the rotor, the carrier does need to be removed which is done by removing the two 15mm bolts on the backside
-moving onto the rotor, this is held onto the spindle, therefore the rotor and hub are one assembly
-remove the grease cap from the hub using interlocking pliers to gently grab onto the outside and rock the cap out slowly
-bend the cotter pin straight and remove from it’s hole
-take off the metal retainer
-remove the 24mm nut
-the rotor is a sliding fit, pull back so the flat washer is to the edge of the threaded shaft and then push back
-this will give us access to easily remove the flat washer and outer bearing
-now remove the rotor
-new rotors do come in a rust inhibiting packaging oil which must be removed before installing using a rotor specific cleaner
-apply a wheel bearing compatible grease to the wheel bearings
-install the rear wheel bearing and then install the seal
-clean the spindle shaft and the bearing seal surface
-install the rotor assembly on the spindle, then install the outer bearing, washer, and nut
-preload the wheel bearing to factory specifications
-reinstall grease cap
-ensure the pads do not bind on the carrier
-if required, clean the mounting surfaces behind the anti rattle clips using a wire brush and file, then reinstall the anti rattle clips and test fit pads
-clean and lubricate the floating pins if needed using a brake specific lubricant
-reinstall the carrier, torque the bolts to 73-97ft lbs.
-use a medium strength thread locker on the bolts as added protection
-install the new brake pads
-install the caliper and bolts along with applying threadlocker, torque the bolts to 22-29ft lbs.
-wipe down the rotor again to remove any contaminants
-reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts
-tighten the master cylinder reservoir cap
-before starting the vehicle, gently pump the brake pedal so the pistons are in their initial location and you will reduce the risk of throwing a brake error code

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