Life in Madrid 2021 | Fuss Free Fancy Dining at Mercado Antón Martin

Good food is not a surprise in a city known for its cuisine. But hearing about a restaurant in a mercado run by a Michelin-starred chef? Intriguing and definitely worth investigating.

It turns out the restaurant wasn’t difficult to find. A Google search yielded the name of Chef Sami Ali, who apparently surprised (an understatement) the culinary world when he decided to close his restaurant La Candela one year after receiving a Michelin star. In today’s environment where people boast about powering through stress, Ali candidly admitted the restaurant was just too much pressure. But talk about pressure – in July 2020, in the middle of the pandemic, he reemerged with Doppelgänger, a casual and less expensive affair in stall 44 of the Mercado Antón Martin in Madrid’s barrio Lavapies.

Never having tried La Candela, we will never know if the new place’s name accurately reflects its similarity to its predecessor however reviews indicate that it does share similar global influences. Like many accomplished chefs, Ali has been influenced by a variety of cuisines, having spent time in kitchens in London, Shanghai and Sudan. The day we went, many of the offerings were Latin-American- and Asian-inspired, such as velvety crunchy shrimp tacos and a starter based on dashi broth.

Offering a very different experience from a traditional Michelin-starred establishment, the restaurant offers diners bar seating at high tables—and in some cases, instructs customers to get their own cutlery from the drawers. One can even see people picking up their takeaway orders at the bar. Whether it’s a trademark of the restaurant’s relaxed vibe or it’s a concession to the pandemic, it’s not clear but it certainly fits with the atmosphere.

Although dining with a curfew meant that mealtime was limited, we still felt we were able to taste a broad selection of the menu. Nonetheless, it would be interesting to return with a more relaxed timetable.

#doppelgangerbar #madrideats #mercadoantonmartin
#barriolavapies #madridfusion

Doppelgänger Bar
Mercado Antón Martin
Calle de Santa Isabel, 5
28012 Madrid
Metro: Antón Martin

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