MOPAR C-Body Wilwood discs #2: Installation, inc. the NPT fitting

Assembly/installation of new shiny bits. 1/8-27NPT caliper fitting discussed in detail.

This follows Part 1 which described removal of drum system:
   • MOPAR C-Body Wilwood discs #1: Disman...  

After this video (Part 2) you might also be interested in the last in this series of 3 videos which covers fitting a dual circuit boosted reservoir system:
   • 1965 MOPAR C-Body twin 8" booster & d...  

The Wilwood kit has comprehensive instructions covering everything apart from the tapered NPT fitting where the brake line is fitted into the caliper itself. I now know why.
- A debate seems to have been going on forever as to whether you should use any kind of thread seal on this fitting, PTFE tape, or nothing at all.
- Conflicting information is available from YT videos by groups such as Hot Rod Magazine, people who actually sell the kits, NSRA forums, engineering forums, motor racing forums, an aerospace forum even, with very strong 100% opposing views held by different people more or less calling each other idiots. So as a sensible regular person, hopefully not an idiot, what is the best thing to do?
- The one sensible piece of advice common to all is that whatever you choose to do, do NOT apply anything to the first 1 or 2 turns of the thread as it goes into the caliper. This lessens chance of anything coming off (particles) and entering the caliper itself.
This only relates to the one tapered fitting of the 90 degree angled connector that screws into the caliper. All other fittings in the hose kit, and the rest of the brake system in general are compression only and all would agree that you definitely do not use sealant or tape of any kind on those.......although I have even seen that done on a Mustang YT video where they were fitting a Wilwood disc kit.
I also found one video by Wilwood themselves where they are showing use of PTFE tape (at 6.00min):    • 2017 RAM 2500 Wilwood TX6R Front Brak...  

In the end I did use a high temperature brake sealant.

I also reached the very final last step, putting the driver's side wheel back on, only to find that I now need 5 clockwise regular wheel nuts instead of the 5 left hand threaded ones I took off that side originally!

In YT videos this job takes maybe an hour per side and usually they have shiny clean new tubular steel control arms etc. In my experience it took longer than this but the process is logical and well explained.

Tools:
You need a good set of 12 point Imperial sockets, an Imperial 12 point ring spanner set including some larger sizes and a torque wrench. I needed a big 1100Watt motor, 3/4" drive electric impact driver for 2 of the most stubborn large bolts when taking the original drum assembly off, as nothing else at all would shift them, but that should now last me for ever. Don't buy the cheapest - I did that initially and it was pathetic. You get what you pay for.