Yamaha LL 11 Acoustic set up

It's refreshing to encounter an old-ish acoustic guitar that has room for 'saddle-based' action improvement. This Yamaha is one of those and was apparent from the first inspection that there was room in the saddle to make those improvements but - more importantly - Yamaha's decision to slant the peg holes at the same angle as the bridge saddle ensures that extra bit of break angle of the high E string. That single design choice is what makes this guitar easy to improve. But beyond this action reduction things get difficult: the only options available are increasingly severe modifications to the bridge and finally the expensive full 'neck reset'. Still - that small design decision (to put the peg holes parallel to the saddle rather than perpendicular to the guitar's centre line) in this case will probably mean another 10 years of fun with this lovely old guitar. That's a BIG pay-off for such a small choice at the drawing board :)
In this video I staged the saddle reduction in two parts to assess the break angle remaining at each stage and here I made the decision to stop after the first reduction. The nut also required a bit of shimming (with some nuBone) because I didn't factor in a mis-match between the neck's radius and the radius of the Tusq nut I bought. There are so many variables you have to try to match when locating a replacement Tusq nut that it's almost impossible to get the radius exactly matched - especially when 'radius' is rarely specified for a nut even on Graph Tech's own website.