How To Block Sand Body Filler in Minutes

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Hey, it’s Tony. Thanks for watching the video.

Rasping is another thing you can do to reduce a lot of sanding time. It’s like cheese grater rasping. You have to rasp the body filler as close to the metal as possible.

The holy block has holes on one side and flat surface on the other. I like to hold it where I can put my fingers in the holes. It’s easier to use that way because it gives you a little bit of grip while blocking.

I wrap it with an 80-grit sandpaper disc and put some water into the holes so the water dribbles on the surface while I’m wet sanding.

There are longer blocks. Some are eighteen inches, twenty-four inches and some are 2-foot long. You use them for door panels and classic cars where there are a lot of flat areas. You just need to put some straight sandpaper on it.

Now, we also have an air straight sander that you use on flat areas. I usually put an 80-grit or a 36-grit sandpaper. You need to put a heavy duty sandpaper on it.

I also have a Dura-Block that you can use on curves. It’s rubbery and you can roll up your sandpaper around it. It’s especially good on classic cars where there are curvy areas, especially around the lights.

Then, you also have a foamy block which is good for water sanding and cutting things down quickly. These are also good for corners. I got mine from Meguiar’s.

You can also use a basic painter stick for tiny areas. Just break the stirrer and wrap a sandpaper around it. I use it in-between doors and between fenders to correct gaping.

You can also use these old school rubber blocks. You can use anything as a block. Let your imagination run wild.

I usually keep a box of used sandpapers with all kinds of grit. I only throw sandpaper away if they’re really bad, but if there’s a little bit of grit left on it, I keep it in this box for later use.

Make sure to constantly hit your sandpaper pad to take all the dust off.

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-Tony

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