Rebuild a 2CV Engine | Part 1: Disassembly | BURTON 2CV PARTS

HOW TO REBUILD YOUR 2CV ENGINE.
Part 1: How to disassemble your 2CV engine?

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1. Untighten the fuel hose clamp and pull the hose of the carburettor.
2. Remove the 4 carburettor nuts. The A1.2717 carburettor spanner makes this work a lot easier.
3. With the nuts removed you can pull the carburettor of the manifold.
4. Remove the fan bolt. With the A1.2701 fan socket the fan comes off after a few gentle tabs.
5. Unscrew the 3 M5 nuts of the alternator pulley cover. This donor engine had 2 of the fixtures broken.
6. Remove the M7 bolt off the alternator bracket.
7. Use a 14mm wrench for removing the M9 alternator bolt and remove the alternator.
8. Remove the oil filler neck by removing the 2 M7 bolts.
9. The fuel pump is next. remove the 2 bolts that hold the pump and pull it off the engine.
10. Lock the flywheel with the A1.2771 flywheel locking tool.
11. Remove the 6 bolts of the clutch cover. The bolt pattern can be different depending on the year of the car.
12. Pull or tab the clutch of the flywheel.
13. Remove the flywheel bolts and pull the flywheel of the engine.
14. Now it is time for the manifold. Remove the 4 bolts on the inlet ports.
15. The nuts and studs on the exhaust side can be in bad condition. Use a penetrating oil and and hope that they come loose.
16. The first stud snapped off. Hopefully it stays with one.
17. The second nut was also stuck. Therefore the nut is split with a chisel.
18. On this side both nuts are also removed with a chisel and hammer.
19. Pull the manifold of the cylinderheads.
20. The cylinder cowling is removed by unscrewing all the screws and bolts. Normally there are also 2 M7 bolts on the bottom of the cylinderhead.
21. The removal on rubber cowling is the same as the steel version.
22. Repeat this process on the other side.
23. Unscrew the 7 m5 screws and remove the rubber cover. Normally there should be 2 steel strips, in our motor one was already missing.
24. Pull the wiring back thrue the hole.
25. Remove the 4 bolts of the engine mounts.
26. Now the fan cowling can be removed.
27. Remove the 2 m7 bolts and remove the ignition system from the engine.
28. Remove the wire from the oil pressure sender.
29. Remove the 2 engine mount brackets.
30. The oilcooler can now be removed. To do this remove first the M7 bolt at the top of the cooler.
31. Untighten the swivels, for this you can use the A1.2723 oil cooler wrench. It is possible that the pipe rotates with the swivel and breaks.
32. Remove the oil line by removing the 3 banjo bolts.
33. Place an oil pan under the cylinderhead. untighten the rocker cover bolt and pull or gently tab the cover of the head.
34. Repeat this process on the other side and make sure the drain pan is correctly positioned. Otherwise it can get messy.
35. Untighten the 3 cylinderhead nuts evenly and remove the nuts. Repeat this proces also on the other side.
36. The heads can now be removed. It can help to apply some penetrating oil when the cylinders are rusted stuck.
37. Here you can see that the cylinder only comes of the cranckcase. Therefore a large screwdriver is used for prying the head off.
38. The other side is removed completely. When completely removed the cylinder can be tabbed of the head.
39. Pull the cylinder of the engine.
40. Remove the gudgeon securing clip with a hook or small screwdriver.
41. Push the gudgeon pin out of the piston. Make sure not to put to much force on the conecting rods or cranckshaft. This process can also be done with a gudgeon pin puller.
42. Remove the oil pressure sender.
43. The oilpump is the next step. Remove the 5 bolts to remove the cover and rotor. A magnet can be handy for removing the rotor parts.
44. Remove the 2 m5 screws of the oil pickup.
45. Remove the over pressure valve. This plug can be tight.
46. Remove the oil filter from the engine with an oil filter socket -A1.2740-. Use a drain pan to prevend a mess.
47. Remove the 2 Allen head screws and pull the oil filter base off the engine.
48. On the back of the engine is a small Allen head plug. Remove this.
49. The engine is ready to be spit. First check if all the oil is drained and otherwise now is the time. Remove all the m7 bolts and nuts around the 2 cranckcase parts.
50. With all the M7 bolts removed there are only 4 M10 bolts left to remove.
51. Lay the engine on the left side and tab around the crankcase untill it comes off. With the engine under an angle the internal parts do not fall out and get damaged.
52. Remove the oil pickup, camshaft with the oilpump housing and the crankshaf.
53. Push the cam followers out of the crankcase. Mark there position when you want to re-use them.