TR6 Heater Box Restore. 3 of 3. Blower box restore

Triumph TR6 250 5 Heater box restoration. The motor replacement and how to remove are in the other two videos.

This project was a bit more time consuming than I thought it would be. However, for 15 years I had no blower or heat. I turned it on and got electrical burning smoke and all my coolant lines were clogged. So, it was time to fix that problem. I just went for a test drive with the heat on full blast a few days after completing video #3 – it works amazing with no leaks or issues. Everything works as intended. I can’t say how much more “air” the new motor puts out a I don’t have a comparison but I’m sure it’s a lot more than the original.
I’m splitting this into 3 videos as I know a lot of people have their TR6 in pieces and may only need to look at one of these videos.
1) Remove Blower Motor Box (the easy way) without dash or center support removal.
2) Replace motor with modern upgrade & custom bracket (alternatively you can get rebuild these).
3) Refurbish the Heater box itself and testing the heater core.
4) Optional: look for my video on putting a screen on the air intake to keep debris out of the air box

Ducting Info: defroster(demister) ducts and eyeball ducts originally are different materials. My guess is the defrost had to be more heat resistant while the eyeballs don’t get hot air so just cheaper plastic was used by Triumph. The defroster ducts were a sturdy vinyl with internal wire winding 1 1/2" ID and for the eye ball vents corrugated plastic 1 3/4" ID. My defroster pipes are like new but my lower ducts which are plastic are all cracked. I glued together for the video but I plan on replacing the lower ones as soon as possible- they are shot – but just the long runs above our knees where we kick and dig around – the short pieces behind the vents appear ok so I probably won’t mess with them as it’s a tight space.
1.5-inch ID diameter (need 25 inches) – not verified – just read on internet so it must be real
1.75-inch ID diameter (need 70 inches) – not verified – just read on the internet so it must be real
McMaster-Carr
53145K27 is the 1 1/2" ID hose
53145K28 is the 1 3/4" ID hose
Another duct choice for the eyeball 1-3/4 ducts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MWDP3YB/...

If I was replacing every inch, I’d get the McMasters stuff as shipping is expensive or you pay a lot for the big kits from Moss or Rimmers. However, I just need the 1 ¾ for the long lower ducts right now so I’m going to get the Amazon for now.

For rebuilding the heater box:
MD 02006: 1-1/4 in. X 42 in. Gray Air Conditioner Weatherseal for Window Units. Weatherstrip to wrap around the heater core (cut about in half to use):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Build...

Frost King F1524: Air Filter – used for the flap door at the bottom of blower box: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Kin...

3M Strip Caulk – seal the last side of the motor cover that had nothing on it:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08578-Black...

Frost King - 3/8 in. x 3/16 in. x 17 ft. Grey Vinyl Foam Weatherseal Tape. Foam strip to seal the three sides on the motor cover to the heater box:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Kin...

M-D Building Products: 1/2 in. x 3/4 in. x 10 ft. Gray Foam Window Seal for Ex-Large Gaps
For the top of the blower motor to seal to the bulkhead of car. I used a piece that came with the TRF install kit but this one looks similar if not the same
https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Build...

J-B Weld 8267 SteelStik Steel Reinforced Epoxy Putty Stick - 2 oz. Used to fix sealing around the duct pipes where the factory seal falls out. Also, used to hold the worm bracket in place to the motor.