Expansion bolts: Wedge bolt vs Sleeve bolt [Climbing bolt basics]

There's a huge variety of anchor bolts available for bolting concrete, masonry and rock. So which type to use for bolting rock climbs? Here discuss the features, installation, and removal (kinda) of the most common expansion bolts used in rock climbing: wedge bolts and sleeve bolts. Sleeve bolts styles discussed are standard (hex nut), and flush head (hex bolt).

*Expansion bolts are a category of mechanical anchor.
*These are usually called wedge anchor, sleeve anchor etc, because that's the category of fastener used for anchoring things into concrete, etc. I use the term 'bolt' because 'anchor' in climbing usually refers to the double bolt belay at the top of a climb.
*Wedge bolts are aka wedge anchors, through bolts, true bolts.
*Sleeve bolts are aka dynabolts, tygabolts, and many other names.

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0:00 - intro
0:24 - Wedge bolt overview
3:25 - Standard sleeve bolt overview
5:02 - Flush head sleeve bolt overview
6:38 - Wedge bolt installation
10:36 - Standard sleeve bolt installation
12:04 - Flush head sleeve bolt installation
13:01 - Sleeve bolt removal
14:33 - Extra points
15:52 - Outro