Chapter 11 tv 006 - "18 Pack ft. Micky Clarke"

Rain or shine my brother would always walk from his van to the waters edge with his wetsuit halfway down. I never knew if it was vanity or just to catch some extra rays, but when the session was over he’d rip his wetsuit back down in knee deep water and expose his upper half for the return trip.

Last year I was surfing with Micky and Eithan at our local break when we saw the familiar sight of Brek walking out on the jetty with his top down. Wave count’s about to go down! We scramble to catch a couple extra waves before he gets that wetsuit all the way up and his leash on.

He jumps off the rocks and paddles up in a blue and green Quiksilver suit.

“How’s that thing fit?” Asks an almost 21 year old Micky

“Good!” Says Brek.

After he takes the first wave that comes in I ask Micky - “You hooked Brek up a suit?”

“Yeah he showed up at my house with an 18 Pack of Modelo’s and asked if I wanted to trade for a wetsuit!”

Brek was the ultimate at recognizing opportunities to swoop free equipment.

An example situation-

I’d be changing out of my wetsuit and he’d walk up… “how were the waves?” “Kinda fun!” “Shit I wanna surf but I don’t really have a board I like… What did you ride?” “This one, it’s kinda sick, I bet you’d like it” “Really?” “Shit… ya you should try it!”

I’d never see that board again.

I asked Micky if he was tripping that Brek showed up at his house and wanted to trade an 18 pack of beer for a wetsuit… “I was kinda trippin… but I was kinda stoked!”

CH | 11 | TV | 006 is comprised mostly of Micky surfing the past few months.

Let’s meet the now 22 Micky Clarke -

Age?– 21 but I’ll be 22 tomorrow

From?– Ventura, Ca

Favorite surfers growing up?– Obvisouly Dane and Craig, Bobby Martinez, Tom Curren and Tim Curran and Julian Wilson at one point

What gets under your skin?– Mean people

What inspires you?-My friends and people I look up to doing what they are proud of

What do you do when your not surfing?– I play a lot of video games and I try to split my time up reading books too.

Favorite treat?– Cookies, I fuckin love cookies

Have you had any other jobs than surfing/ have you ever had a job?– I worked as a surf judge for local contest to make a quick buck on the weekends, fire protection with my dad, diggin ditches and installing pipes...

Last dream you can remember?– I was in Oxnard at the beach, I brought my girlfriend down to this random contest and I got caught by a renta cop smoking a joint. I ended up punching him in the face and knocking him down some stairs, then felt extremely bad about it. He told me “your going to get it,” and then my girlfriend broke up with me because it was so intense and I tried to go surf but just couldn’t…

Worst injury?– When i was in first grade, some friends and I were playing street hockey. On my friends back swing, the stick smacked me in the eye and I almost went blind in one eye, but luckily that didn’t happen.

Favorite movie?– Django, because its a very inpiring story with and amazing overcoming ended…

Best contest result?– I was 16 and got 2nd two years in a row at Open mens nationals in HB

Most cherished possession?– My life, living, my breath

Pepsi or coke?– Coke

Is the world fucked or do you have hope?– No hope haha, I dont know man we’re pretty fucked. I think theres hope for the after life though

Any final words?– Thanks for reading and thanks for watching