How to Set up a DSLR on the Roxant Pro Video Stabilizer

Описание к видео How to Set up a DSLR on the Roxant Pro Video Stabilizer

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I recommend using a prime lens if you have one. A 50mm prime lense works great on the Roxant Pro for a Nikon or a Canon DSLR because they are so much lighter than the kit lense or other zoom lenses. If you’re using a zoom lense, set your focal length now. Otherwise, it’ll just throw off the balance later if you make any major changes.
If your camera has an auto-focus video mode, you want to turn that off and use manual focus video mode. This will stop the lens from moving in and out and throwing off the balance.
For a DSLR like the Canon Rebel or a Nikon 5200, you want to start with all 3 weights on the arm. The newer version of the Roxant Pro comes with 3 different sized weights. For most DSLR cameras, put the heaviest weight on the bottom like so.

Next, we want to attach the camera to the top of the stabilizer in the middle of the frame.
Now, you want to attach the handle.
This is the gimbal. It is essentially a ball joint on which the entire weight of the camera sits.
You can prime the gimbal with a small amount of automotive grease or some 3 in 1 oil to lubricate it for better results. Don’t get hung up too much on the gimbal. It should always be perfectly loose when you’re shooting. I can’t think of a single instance when I’ve ever tightened the handle down while shooting.
Now, try to use the slot where the camera seems best balanced. It won’t be perfect yet, we will fine tune later.
Use a penny if you need to change the position of the little silver adapter screw.
You can tighten the wingnut when you’re screwing the handle into the frame to make it easier, but for balancing and shooting, loosen the wingnut on the handle as much as possible to allow the maximum range of motion.

The Most common problem that people have with balancing any stabilizer is getting the correct amount of weight on the stabilizing arm to counter-balance the camera. You want to be able to tilt the camera like this, and the camera should return to center in a nice fluid motion. You should be able to turn it on its side and count 2 seconds before it returns slowly to center exactly like this. If your camera does not function exactly as shown in the video, you need to adjust the weight and length of the arm until it does.

If the camera flops around wildly like this, you have too much weight-reduce the weight, or shorten the length of the arm.
If the camera will not return to center when turned on its side- You need to extend the arm or add more weight until you get a nice fluid motion.
Many DSLR cameras are heavier than what the weights included with the Roxant Pro can handle. In that case, use a couple 2-inch washers to compensate for the difference in weight.
Remember the balance should look almost identical to this when it’s set up correctly. (notice the nice fluid motion of the camera returning to center)

Now that we have the weights set up correctly, we want to tweak the position of the camera on top until its leveled. Let’s get the front to back motion leveled out first. I can hold the handle and the camera returns to center when after I tilt it. That looks good.

Most cameras are weighted a little lopsided because the battery is a little offset of the center. You can fix this by making a slight tweak to the position of the stabilizing arm underneath. The Roxant has a nice rubberized anti-slip pad that will keep the arm in place. None of the other stabilizers I’ve tried have this feature and it makes all the difference in the world for holding the arm in place. A very slight adjustment to the position of the arm will make a big difference. Now that it looks good, just tighten down a little.

Let’s say you have the weights set up correctly, but you just can’t seem to get rid of the lean in one direction. In that case, there is a very simply fix that costs about 50 cents. You can use this on any stabilizer. You just use a nut and bolt and a couple small washers and zero it out. I attach mine right here in one of the holes underneath to tilt the camera a little.
I actually prefer this method because it allows me to save my setting so I don’t waste time tweaking my stabilizer every time I set it up. I just correct my left to right lean by using the grooves on top and then attach a few washers to zero out the front to back tilt. Next time I go to set up my camera, I can just screw this on and it’ll be ready to go in 30 seconds.

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