Master of Wine Discusses Burgundy Value

In this video, Bob Paulinski Master of Wine discusses Montagny. I’ll discuss a particularly noteworthy value, along with where it’s from, what to expect, then the video will conclude with a tasting of a prime example.

The focus here will be on Montagny, one of the most overlooked and undervalued white wines of Burgundy. It barely gets a mention on youtube. For me, it’s something I was introduced to decades ago when I was first getting wine. Back then, the shop that I worked in sold a good amount of it from Louis Latour, it was one of the few Montagny options available in the US then. While Louis Latour still makes a good one, the range of options has expanded, but you’ll need a good specialty retailer or online source to find it.

Montagny is from the Cote Chalonnaise, home of the some of the best values in Burgundy. This is not an ultra-prime prestige region like the Cote de Nuits or Cote de Beaune which are located a short distance north. Here, you’ll find wine like Bouzeron for Aligote, then Rully Mercurey for very good both reds and white. Then to Givry for some of the red values in Burgundy, and finally to Montagny at the most southern end of the region. It’s a place with a wine history that goes back to the Middle Ages. Specific to Montagny, its decree as an appellation date back to the 1930’s.

It might come as a surprise but well over half of the wine produced in Burgundy is white, of course most being derived from Chardonnay and then a much lesser extent of Aligote, about 34% is red, mostly Pinot Noir, followed by Gamay. The region produces a tiny amount of rose’. And the remainder is Cremant, arguably the best value anywhere for sparkling wine. A good percentage of Cremant de Bourgogne comes from the Cote Chalonnaise
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Burgundy is built on a complex hierarchy classification system that’s shaped like a triangle. As you move up the hierarchy, the place of origin gets increasingly more specific, nudging toward the more premium vineyard sites. There are more than 80 appellations in Burgundy. At the base, you’ll find the most general appellations at a regional or sub-regional level. Most are from the flatter, less prime vineyard sites. Here you’ll find the broadest labelling, such as Bourgogne blanc or rouge or Macon Villages for example. At this level, sometimes the grape variety will be noted on the label, especially for wines meant for the export markets. This base level accounts for over half of the region’s total wine production.

Next up is the Village level which takes its names from the various communes, these are wines sourced from better sites versus the regional or sub-regional wines, this accounts for about 33% of the production in Burgundy. Then comes the Premier Crus which are increasingly more site specific, from better vineyards, often with eastern or southern exposures. This accounts for about 10% of the regions volume. Lastly, at the top of the triangle is the GC at only 1% of the total wine production. These are from the best sites, typically mid-slope, with the ideal vineyard exposure and drainage. Sometimes, only the specific vineyard with be noted on the label. As one moves up the hierarchy, the prices increase as well. Depending on the market, regional wines can be very affordable, while the top are will be pricey.

Specific to the Cote Chalonnaise there are no Grand Crus, but there are many Premier Cru. Within Montagny, about 1/3 of the wines are designated at the Village level, the rest as PC. There are too many Montagny premier crus to sort out, it’s a legacy that dates back many years, it’s a story fit for a NF documentary. Simply know that most Montagny is simply labelled as premier cru without noting a more specific place of origin. All Montagny is white, made entirely from Chardonnay, there is no red version.

Much of the region has Limestone based soils, this is well suited to Chardonnay, some resemble the kimmergian soil, as is found in Chablis. Many Montagny are made in stainless steel, if oak is used, its generally on the lighter side. New oak rarely plays a part. In terms of aging potential, 3 to 5 years from the vintage is the norm. Approx US pricing is posted below.

2021 Vignerons de Buxy Montagny $17
2021 Joseph Drouhin Montagny $24
2021 Louis Latour Montagny 1er Cru La Grande Roche $25
2022 Domaine des Moirots Montagny 1er Cru Vieux $29
2019 Mont Chauve Montagny 1er Cru, $30 (tasted in this video)
2020 2020 JM Boillot Montagny 1er Cru $33

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