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The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ranks among the world’s most famous and celebrated luxury watch designs. Over 49 years, the AP Royal Oak – in all of its forms – has become a standard of reference among men’s watches and one of the most sought timepieces of 2021. Today’s show includes three different versions of the Royal Oak for collectors of modern watches, vintage watches, new watches, and discontinued watch models. This is an illustrated buyer’s guide to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.
Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak “Jumbo” 5402 at the Basel Watch and Jewelry show in 1972. Designed by jewelry specialist Gerald Genta, the Royal Oak became AP’s single most recognizable product before the decade was out. WatchBox’s example of the Royal Oak 5402 is a rare yellow gold example with a grey petite tapisserie dial.
The pantograph-cut hobnail dial here is present in its most intricate and traditional from. AP’s integrated gold bracelet fulfills Genta’s vision of a watch intended to blur the line between horology and jewelry. The Jaeger LeCoultre-based Audemars Piguet caliber 2121 automatic movement permits an ultra-thin case and low-slung grace.
In 2005, Audemars Piguet replaced its long running midsize Royal Oak 14790 with the 39mm Royal Oak 15300. Now 39mm like the original Royal Oak Jumbo, the mainstream automatic model gained a more robust bracelet, improved water resistance, a new in-house Audemars caliber 3120 automatic movement, and a sturdy deployant clasp. Today’s show features an example of the 15300ST in stainless steel with the highly sought “grande” tapisserie hobnail dial in blue. Traditionally, blue dial Royal Oaks have been reserved for premier Audemars Piguet retailers and factory boutiques.
Watch collectors who seek the most modern sports watch among the traditional Royal Oaks will gravitate towards the 15500. Launched at SIHH 2019, the Royal Oak 15500 is a contemporary 41mm size with a redesigned dial and the new automatic caliber 4302. Today’s show includes the grey dial 15500 variant, and it is easy to see the changes relative to the previous 15400; “automatic” has been removed from the dial, new hour indices have been fitted, and the index/date at three o’clock has changed. Caliber 4302 better fills the display caseback, and its 70-hour power reserve represents a substantial increase over the 3120’s 60 hours.
• 15:11 Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Flyback Chronograph 26393CR.OO.A002CR.01 $44,950
o 2020 dial grey fume fade, rose gold and white gold
• 17:45 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402 vintage watch, Royal Oak Jumbo $149,950
o Yellow gold case and bracelet, grey petite tapissereie dial
• 20:33 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic 15300ST.OO.1220ST.02 $52,995
o Stainless steel, blue dial, 39mm
• 05:52 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic 15500ST.OO.1220ST.02
o Stainless steel, grey dial, 41mm
o Email [email protected] for pricing
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o Not yet priced: email [email protected] for a quote
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o White gold 42.2mm, blue dial, 2021 model, flyback chronograph
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o Grande date, steel and rose gold, chronometer, split seconds chronograph
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