296) How to Make Interchangeable Lockpick Handles

How to Make Interchangeable Lockpick Handles
Step-by-Step instructions are below in the description

00:00 - Intro
00:07 - Cutting the material (metal bars) down to size
01:40 - Drawing on and drilling the holes (do steps in order!)
05:27 - Drilling the hole for the head of the screws to sit in
06:16 - Rounding off the ends of the handle
07:34 - Rounding off the edges of the handle
08:32 - Final sanding (general shape with course grit, then all grits)
09:15 - Metals I have made handles with
11:53 - Types of Chicago Screws - Things to Consider
18:10 - How to put the picks in the handles

What is needed
-Template and downloadable full text of instructions on Thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:648...
1. Material for the scales (metal bars, wood)
2. 3 Chicago style screws - Make sure the screws you are using will connect all the way through the handle WITH the added thickness of a pick.
a. 4mm screws are just slightly too short for 1/8" scales (1/4" total). They will be slightly recessed in the handle to work, not flush.
https://www.zieh-fix.com/en/manipulat...
3. Hole punch
4. Round metal file or round needle file
5. Drill bits for metal (cobalt)
6. Grinder/belt sander
7. Sandpaper (grits 60 - 3000/5000)

Instructions
-ORDER IS IMPORTANT since we are inaccurate humans doing this by hand! This order will save time and ensure greatest accuracy for a good fit.
1. Cut metal bar into 9cm long pieces
a. Make a template so sizing is consistent.
b. Sand/grind/file down the fresh cut end so it is flat before measuring again. This is to make sure we are measuring consistently from an even edge.
2. Pair up similar sized bars. Keeping them oriented the same way the whole time helps fitting later.
3. Drilling the holes in the scales:
a. Mark the spots for the screw holes on both ends of one scale and on one end of the other scale.
i. These holes are the size of the post of your screw, not the head of the screw.
ii. Make a template for this.
b. Drill the 3 holes marked.
c. Screw together both scales on one side.
i. The screws we are using right now are temporary screws that can get scratched and beat up.
d. Drill the hole on the other end of the scale that only has one hole. Do this through the existing 2nd hole of the other scale. This will help act as a guide to make sure it is aligned.
i. Make sure the scales are even. Use masking tape to help hold that end still. Even then, holding the sides to make sure they stay still helps (one could use a clamp of sorts).
ii. Marking the hole then drilling the hole without the other as a guide is not accurate.
e. Put screws through the end with the new hole. The scales should now be screwed together on both ends.
f. Mark center hole and drill all the way through it.
4. Drill the wider portion of the holes so that the heads of the screws will sit flush with the handles.
a. *Use the same type of screws as using in the end result from here on out. These screws are sacrifices to use for making handles for now on.
b. Drill them deep enough that the heads of the screws will sit flush with the handle.
c. Make sure it is deep enough so that the screws can connect and screw together through the scales.
i. They should have plenty of room to screw together since we still need to add the thickness of a pick later.
ii. 4mm screws are just slightly too short for 1/8" scales (1/4" total). They will be slightly recessed in the handle to work, not flush.
d. The screw heads should be flush (or deeper) with the handles at this point. This is important so that when sanding later we don't sand the screws flat and can't unscrew them.
5. Put the handles completely together with all of the screws and tighten.
6. Sand/grind down the ends of the scales so they are even.
7. Draw the outline for the rounded ends.
a. Create a template for this.
b. Sand/grind the shape on the ends.
8. Sand flat the sides of the scales with a course grit.
a. We do this after drilling the holes and shaping the ends because excess metal from shaping can protrude out.
b. Also, sometimes metal bars aren't completely flat.
9. Round off the squared edges of the scales on a sander/grinder. Just get a general shape, not perfect - that's what hand sanding is for.
10. Smooth out the final shape by hand sanding with course sand paper.
a. If wanting to round the edges more, I demonstrate an easy sanding technique that make this easier and easier on the hands. It can be found at timestamp 1:15 in video "152) Making Custom Lockpicks Part 3 - Finishing the Shape, Putting Pins in, and Drawing the Pick" (link starts at timestamp)
11. Sand through all the grits.
a. Wood up to 600-1000 grit
b. Metal up to 3000-5000 grit
c. Use a light source to look for scratches in the metal so you don't miss any.
12. Do final polishing with a buffing wheel followed by liquid polish.

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