Dhaka Dance, Surma Birijaat Festival of Farwest Nepal | Folklores Musical Documentary |

Another major festival I documented is the Birijaat, celebrated in Surma Gaunpalika of the Bajhang district, Nepal. This festival honors Goddess Surma, after whom the Surma Rural Municipality is named.

Birijaat Surma Devi Mela:
The festival takes place every year from Shrawan Krishna Aunsi (new moon) to Janai Purnima (full moon) in devotion to Goddess Surma. Pilgrims from Bajhang and Darchula undertake a journey to the sacred Surma Sarovar, a pilgrimage site located at an altitude of about 5,000 meters. A week before the festival begins, villagers start fasting, consuming only food they consider pure. During this period, no one in the village wears shoes. I documented the entire festival while walking barefoot as well.
Throughout the festival, the villagers play a drum called the Dhaka, whose resonant sound is believed to invoke the presence of Goddess Surma, echoing throughout the village. The rhythmic chanting of "Cha Cha," accompanied by the Dhaka drum, fills the air for the entire week, creating an atmosphere that feels as though the Goddess herself is manifesting among them. Women also sing traditional songs like Mangal, Cha Bhai, Dhamari, and other ritual songs dedicated to Goddess Surma, further enriching the spiritual ambiance.
The Surma Devi Birijaat Festival is considered a Big Birai (Thuli Birai) in even-numbered years and a Small Birai (Sani Birai) in odd-numbered years. During the Small Birai, fewer people make the pilgrimage to Surma Sarovar, while in the Big Birai, many first-time visitors join the journey.

About Bhala-Bhali:
Bhalabhali is an initiative project led by Nepalese ethnomusicologists, with the goal of documenting, preserving, and showcasing the cultural and musical heritage of Nepal through audio-visual mediums.

Produced/Filmed/edited by:
Dinesh Upadhyay
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