Скачать или смотреть etrailer | All About the Pacer Performance Hi-Five LED Truck Cab Light Kit

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Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Pace...
Ellen: Hey everyone. I'm Ellen here at etrailer.com today we're taking a look at the Pacer performance hi-five LED truck cab light kit. Now this is going to give us that big rig look on the top of our truck and help also to give us a little bit more visibility or at least give other drivers a little bit better heads up when we're coming down the road, especially in inclement weather. Maybe it's pretty foggy outside going through some heavy rain, snow, whatever the case might be. So it gives our truck that better visibility as we're coming down the highway.Now this is styled after the 1994 through 1998 Dodge factory roof lights, so it should be a match for those. Of course, if you want to add it on any vehicle you can.

The only thing that I would say is that you do have to do some drilling to get this installed, so that's one thing to keep in mind. To get the mounting hardware in there, you do need to drill some holes. So you'll have two holes at least per light for those mounting holes on the top there, or on the on either side. So it's going to give you a total of 10 holes to drill into your cab and through the roof line. And you might also want to drill a third hole to allow your wiring to go through.

So if that's the deal breaker for you, just letting you know that right up front that you do have to make some modifications to your truck to get them installed.But we're to get everything that you see laid on the table here. So we'll get our light housings, the wiring sockets are LED bulbs. We also get our incandescent bulbs as well, just kind of as a freebie. So you can use these in a pinch. They are a 194 style bulb, so a lot of different things use these including interior lights and other things.

So not a bad thing to keep on hand, but you don't really need them for this kit.We also get our wiring bundle. So this is going to have our fuse and our wiring to get things hooked up to our battery. So it's going to have two lengths. One is going to be a shorter length with that fuse already installed in line. It has a little spade connector.

That's going to go to the back of our switch there. The other length of wire is a bit longer. It also has a little spade terminal, so that's going to go to the other side of our switch to provide our power. So this fuse side will run to our battery, hook it up. This other side is going to go to our lights.You might also want to get some extra wire to do this install. This length of wire is a pretty good amount. I think it's about four or five feet, but never a bad idea to have some extra wire, especially if you're running this all the way up to your engine compartment. I doubt that this is going to get you all the way, but depending on how you route it, if you do route it along the A-pillar, you might get there. But just in my experience, you can never go wrong by having a little wire.It also comes with the hardware to get each of our lights installed, the hardware for the switch and some grommets to make sure that we don't have any leaks coming underneath the heads of those screws. You can also grab some silicone sealant just to make sure that everything is really sealed up tight. If it we're me I would do it just to make sure that there are no water getting into my truck. I don't have to deal with that any to anytime soon. Silicone gasket maker, we also have here at etrailer.com if you want.And the third thing that I would suggest picking up would be to replace these guys. These are quick slice connectors, they work in a pinch, they do make your connection, but as far as longevity, these just don't cut it. A lot of times things that we have come back into the shop, it's because somebody installed it with these quick splice connectors. They'll pop open, make the connection go bad. They could fall off. Because if you think of it, your truck is going down the road, you're hitting bumps just encountering vibrations. Even if you're not hitting anything in particular, just by the truck is moving. And these can just come apart and they just don't hold up as well.So I would suggest replacing these, at least with insulated butt connectors, or if you want to go an extra step, get heat shrink butt connectors. They operate in the same way. They just are going to go around your wiring connection and help everything to stay together a little bit better. Typically we'll install a little bit flatter than these so they're easy to tuck up in a way. Heat shrinks provide a watertight connection. So if it we're me, that's what I