Using Heel Diagonal to Calculate a Better Fitting Flap // Technique Tuesday

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Adjusting the length of the heel flap is the standard advice for modifying a sock for a better fit around the heel, but getting an accurate measurement (floor to mid-ankle bone) can be tricky. This video demonstrates how to take the heel diagonal measurement (where accuracy is easier) and use it to calculate the correct heel flap length. Written instructions for the method shown can be found further down in the description.

To jump direction to a specific point in the video, click on the adjacent time-stamped link:
Introduction 0:00
Where fit issues most likely occur: 0:20
Three components of the gusset circumference: 1:27
Calculating heel flap length using heel diagonal: 4:15


Written instructions for calculating heel flap length from heel diagonal measurement.
Example sock has 64 sts for sock; stitch gauge is 8 sts/in; heel diagonal is 12.5''

Heel diagonal x .9 x stitch gauge = target stitch count for start of gusset.
e.g. 12.5'' heel diagonal x .9 = 11.25''
11.25'' x 8 sts/in = 90 sts (target for start of gusset)

Instep and heel flap each have 32 sts
Heel sts rem after heel turn is 1/2 of heel flap sts +2 (for Round Heel)
e.g. (32 sts x .5) + 2 = 18
32 instep sts + 18 sts rem after heel turn = 50 sts
Another way to arrive at this number is
(# sock sts x .75) +2
e.g. (64 x .75) +2 = 50

sts to pick up for heel = target start of gusset - (instep and rem heel turn sts)
e.g. 90 - 50 = 40
20 sts will be picked up on each side of flap

Use stockinette gauge to determine how wide those 20 sts are.
e.g. 20 sts divided by 8 sts/in = 2.5'' (This is the length to knit the heel flap.)

If you have questions about this video, or suggestions for future videos, please let me know down in the comments or on social media.

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