etrailer | This Old Trailer: Changing Hydraulic Trailer Brake to Electric

Описание к видео etrailer | This Old Trailer: Changing Hydraulic Trailer Brake to Electric

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Click for more info and reviews of this Dexter Trailer Brakes:
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Check out some similar Trailer Brakes options:
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Acce...

Click for more info and reviews of this Dexter Trailer Brakes:
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https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Acce...

Click for more info and reviews of this Dexter Trailer Brakes:
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Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-This-Old-...
Today on This Old Trailer we are going to replace hydraulic brakes with electric brakes. Basically it is going to be a matter of taking off the tires, removing the hubs, go ahead and removing the backing plates and drain the hydraulic lines of fluid, and then going ahead and bolting on the new brakes. We will start off, obviously, by taking the wheels off. OK, go ahead and remove the dust cover here. It is an E-Z Lube spindle so this has a tang washer that we need to bush back down so we can unlock the castle nut right here. Just push it back down. Now we should be able to take the hub right off. The next task is to go ahead and disconnect the hydraulic lines. We have that disconnected. Now we need to pull the clip out so we can release this part here. And that is just a little piece of metal right here that you can just pry out. Alright, now we can unbolt this at the back of the hydraulic backing plate. Alright, now we can unbolt the backing plate from the flange on the axle. Now we are down to our bare axle. We will clean it up a little bit and then reinstall the brakes. 1:24

Before we put on our brake, we are going to cover which way it goes. Now it says on here right side, which is also the passenger side. But if you do not have the sticker or it is messed up, this bow right here, think of it as an arrow that points to the front always. We will just go ahead and flip it over. Get the wire. So go ahead and put our wire holder. It just loops over and pushes into place. It keeps it out of the way so it does not get smashed in the plate there. And we will go ahead and wire these up in a little bit. We will just slide it on because it has existing studs. And the magnet also points to the bottom always. Before we actually bolt it down, you might want to take a test fit and make a sure you have enough room for the lock nut and washer when you put it together. If you do not have room for it, you can get by by using just the nut. But, it might be a good idea to go ahead and use some Loctite on there to help ensure that it stays on. And we are going to be using part number LT37643. Alright, now this Loctite material what it does is it basically locks the nut onto the bolt. And what happens is it stays in this pliable state right now but as soon as you run a nut down on to it this air squeezes out and it starts hardening up. It basically turns into like an inside lock nut. And you can also easily undo it with basic, common hand tools too. 2:35

We will just go ahead and install our brake assembly and we will go ahead and install the nuts. What is also nice about the Loctite is it makes it a little bit more easier to thread on. Once you get everything snugged down, torque them down about 1/8 of a turn. That should be just fine. Now, we have two wires coming out of the backing plate. Now, we are going to ground one of them and then, since it is a magnet, it does not care which one as long as one goes to secure ground. We are going to put a ring terminal on the end and put it about right here. That way, you have plenty of room for the wire to go up and down as the suspension goes up and down. We will go ahead and run this wire back up to the front at a later point. Let us go ahead and reinstall our original hub. We can reuse the original hub because it has a flat surface on the inside and that it where our magnet will ride against this. So all we have to do, really, is to inspect the seal. Make sure it is in good shape and, if there is any doubt wha

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