2023 Camino de Santiago - Las Herrerias to O'Cebreiro - Stage 22

Stage 22: Las Herrerías to O’Cebreiro

An Unforgettable Ascent: Las Herrerías to O'Cebreiro

Excitement crackles in the air as we embark on the crown jewel of the Camino Francés, the journey from Las Herrerías to O'Cebreiro. It's not just the breathtaking beauty that draws us in, but the legendary climb itself, a 12-kilometer ascent into the heart of Galicia. We leave Castilla y León behind, feeling a tinge of nostalgia, yet exhilarated by the promise of what lies ahead.

The climb unfolds like a breathtaking tapestry. We bypass the familiar horses, that help pilgrims climb the dreaded climb. However, we decided to climb on foot, and we are happy to have done so. The climb is demanding, but not impossible. The path, initially a paved road, soon yields to a lush forest, a verdant haven that grants a welcome respite before the ascent intensifies. As we gain altitude, the landscape transforms, revealing a patchwork of valleys and distant peaks.

La Faba, a charming village nestled amidst the pines, offers a well-earned moment to regroup and admire the panorama. Then, the path veers onto an ancient Roman road, whispering tales of forgotten travelers. The sun dances on the leaves, casting playful shadows as we push onward.

The air thins as we approach Laguna de Castilla, the last outpost of Castilla y León. We linger at "La Escuela" hostel, savoring a final taste of Castilian cuisine before crossing the threshold into Galicia. A vibrant stone marker, adorned with the region's proud colors, welcomes us, reminding us that only 152 kilometers remain to Santiago.

The Gaiteiro monument, a poignant tribute to a lost pilgrim guided by the song of a bagpipe, stands sentinel on the ridge. The final push rewards us with a panorama that stretches as far as the eye can see. Rolling hills, emerald meadows, and the distant glint of the ocean paint a picture of unparalleled beauty.

Weaving through ancient "cruceiros," stone guardians of forgotten crossroads, we approach O'Cebreiro, a village frozen in time. It's quaint "pallozas," thatched-roof houses, and cobbled streets whisper stories of Celtic heritage and enduring faith.

The pre-Romanesque church of Santa María la Real, a testament to centuries of devotion, resonates with the echoes of the pilgrim's mass. We marvel at the Holy Miracle chapel and the On the altar lies the tomb of Don Elías Valiña, parish priest of O Cebreiro from 1959 until his death in 1989, a tireless promoter of the Camino and creator of the yellow arrow that has accompanied us along the entire way since we left.

As dusk settles, we gather in our cozy hotel, the day's triumphs and challenges swirling in our minds. Awe-inspiring landscapes, and the profound sense of accomplishment fill our hearts. And after dinner, we retired to our hotel to prepare for our next stage.

We hope you have enjoyed our journey as much as we did.

Buen Camino!