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A few decades back, José Andrés, a James Beard Award-winning chef, partnered with the team over at “ThinkFoodGroup” to create a global array of critically acclaimed restaurants. (His “minibar” concept in DC — which combines “art and science, as well as tradition and technique, to deliver an imaginative and progressive tasting menu, offered at a communal setting” — is a two Michelin-star restaurant.)
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Since Andrés is at the helm of ZAYTINYA, a new restaurant at the base of The Ritz-Carlton NOMAD, 25 West 28th Street (Manhattan), we decided to give his place a visit, and were pleased that we did, as his “Baba Ghannoughe,” (reviewed earlier), scored an impressive “A-.”
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Next up, was the “Mushroom Kapnista – smoked mushrooms, dates, roasted walnut, cumin, labneh” ($18).
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While often grouped into the “vegetable” category, mushrooms are “fungi” — a “kingdom” distinct from plants or animals — that are low in sodium and calories; free of fat and cholesterol; and packed with an array of nutrients, like: Beta glucan, B vitamins, copper, and potassium. They also provide antioxidants, such as selenium, which many believe reduce heart disease and cancer.
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We loved the smoky deliciousness. The mushrooms paired well with the earthiness of the cumin, the sweetness of the dates, and the cream-cheesy flavor of the strained-yogurt base (labneh). The dish also offered some tangy, sharp notes, together with a nice crunch, thanks to the roasted walnuts.
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While we thoroughly enjoyed it, we thought $22.50 (post-tax/tip) was a bit much given the portioning, but the dish still managed to end up with an extremely respectable “A-.”
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I guess you can say, our experience at Zaytinya … really mushroomed.
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