Istanbul, Athens, and the Greek Isles Episode 8: Crete

Istanbul, Athens, and the Greek Isles
June 2024
Episode 8: Crete

For 2000 years before ancient Greek culture arose, the Minoan civilization was the dominant force in the region. The island of Crete was their home base and Knossos their chief city. It was here that the stories of Daedalus & Icarus, King Minos, the Labyrinth, and the Minotaur took place — and it is here that we can still find remnants of the Minoan palace complex.

Knossos was settled as early as 7000 BC but most of what we see today is from 1900 BC - 1550 BC when Knossos was destroyed by a tsunami caused by the volcanic eruption of Santorini. The city was excavated in the early 20th c. by British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans, who was responsible for the somewhat controversial reconstruction work including the addition of concrete surfaces and red-painted pillars to reinforce the ancient remains, but it was still an amazing experience to walk around this ancient site.

Even though the ruins are not insubstantial, most of what you see today are just partial walls, and while there is some artwork in situ, most are modern copies of the originals which now reside in the archaeological museum (which we'll visit next). However there are four areas at Knossos that deserve special attention: (1) the so-called Theater, which is actually an expansive processional area with broad steps leading to the northern entrance to the palace complex; (2) the Throne Room with the original ancient throne surrounded by large, original frescoes on the walls; (3) the original monumental staircase in the East Wing; and (4) the circular stone-lined pits dug into the ground near the city’s entrance, which are among the oldest parts of the site (c. 1900 BC) and were used either for storing grain or as rubbish bins.

But to properly experience Knossos and the Minoan civilization, a trip to the Archaeological Museum in the nearby city of Heraklion is a must. Here we find a vast treasure trove of artifacts, some dating back 5000 years, with each subsequent period also well represented all the way up to the Roman era. Of particular note are the famous Bull-Leaping Fresco, the snake goddess figurines, and an array of ancient sarcophagi.

Other sights in the city of Heraklion include the Rocca a Mare, the 13th c. harbor-front fortress erected by the Venetians when they ruled Crete, with later revisions by the Ottomans who held the island from the 17th c. until the late 1800s. Also of Venetian origin are the Neoria Vechi, the 16th c. dockyards, with tall, long arches within which ships were built and repaired. Another remnant of the Venetian period are the stout walls which surround the old town, pierced by several impressive entrances including the Jesus Gate. In the center of the city, yet another Venetian contribution is the Morosini Lion Fountain, constructed in 1629.

The principal Christian site in Heraklion is the Church of Agios Titos, constructed in the 10th c. by the Byzantines. Later, it was renovated by the Venetians, converted to a mosque by the Ottomans, destroyed by an earthquake, and finally rebuilt and reinstated as an Orthodox church. The skull of Saint Titus is on display, encased in an engraved gold helmet under a glass dome. Titus was the Christian leader in Crete to whom the Apostle Paul wrote a letter that was to become part of the Bible.