Day 40: Sarria to Portomarín | Camino Frances | Camino De Santiago | May-July 2022

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July 2, 2022

"It's the final countdown!!"

Camino De Santiago Day 40: Sarria to Portomarin, Spain

22.7 km (14.105 miles)

The morning started off very noisy, crowded, and uphill. What a different vibe after 39 days of walking! It felt like a great way to welcome in Day 40!! I sort of loved it and sort of hated it. Patience. We're a work in progress.

There was also several support vehicles along the way for groups of new pilgrims. We noticed most did not carry their backpacks and their shoes looked so clean! I have to confess, I'm a little jealous really. No hairspray, hair straightener, or conditioner for 40 days has made my hair very dry and frankly a frayed mess. Birds will start nesting in it soon I'm afraid. I've seen them eyeing me.

We saw a lovely pilgrim couple we've met along the way from England and Ireland. They will be arriving in Santiago the same day as us. That's super exciting since most of the pilgrims we've met are days ahead of us.

The morning clouds and fog all but disappeared by midday and the sun appeared bringing with it heat and welcome light. We enjoyed a few cafe/bars/sangrias/cervezas, but for the most part, we were continuously moving. For 9 hours. My foot pain really slowed us down. Yes, unfortunately, it has returned.

Typically at home I can hike 3 miles an hour comfortably, so this just increases my frustration. It's me trying to keep up with Andre on this trip which normally, it's the opposite. Despite Andre's total hip replacement and recent spinal fusion, he has been the one setting the pace and encouraging me to continue.

As we approached Portomarin, I forgot one crucial step. Take the path furthest to the right while making the descent into the city. I even had a drawing and a reminder to choose the path on the right in my journal. And I dropped the ball. Completely forgot about it. I insisted we should continue down the traditional trail.

As soon as we reached the path downward, I realized my mistake. I did not choose wisely, I chose poorly. Especially for a pellegrina like myself who is fearful of steep downslopes. Also high bridges over large bodies of water. More on that in a minute.

Andre also assessed the situation and with his knowledge of my mad skills, he had me hand him my backpack as he carried both packs and I slid down the path on my butt. There's no other way to say it. I buttslid down the mountain.

By the time we reached the bottom, 2 other pilgrims greeted me with laughter and cheers. I actually felt a little proud for hiking such a steep, rocky descent. Even if it was on my butt.

My fear continued while hiking over the bridge into Portomarin. I got very wobbly and took very little photos. Then came an extremely steep ascent set of stairs greeting us, I personally think Portomarin is a pilgrim deathtrap..I mean obstacle course. At one point, I almost had a panic attack. But I did it, so that's what counts, right?

By the time we arrived to our hotel, I was so wiped out, I did not want to take another step. Andre grabbed a pizza and some noodles, we ate on our private deck and in the lobby, and enjoyed just plain chilling. I did walk a few feet to see the church next door, but that was it. The day was fulfilling and rewarding but also very draining.

We've talked about how we wish we were not so tired by the time we reach our destination. We want to explore the villages but sometimes it's all we can do to keep our eyes open.

Ending on an extremely positive note..we did hit our 100 km mark today!! Not only does that mean we have completed 700 km, but it is a milestone in the pilgrim world to get our Compostela. It also means home is just around the corner. And we do miss home.

Casi estábamos en casa!!