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Day 25. 58km (84516kms 8yrs)

Warm enough overnight but the sunrise was too windy to be enjoyed from outside the tent. Today I resolved to do less, be less rushed, go fewer kilometres. But in the seaside town of Étretat I received the very welcome news that I would be received in Le Havre by Warm Showers host Hélène. So after a pastry or two in the sun and a quick walk about of the promenade - flanked on both sides by white cliffs - I began along the Eurovelo route to the city. Again, I cut a couple of corners but otherwise wiggled along country roads besides, but not always in view of, the coast. Hélène wouldn’t be available until 8pm so I had heaps of time today.

Dropping down to the coast Le Havre’s promenade and beach - just like in Étretat - was busy with folk in warm coats. A significant number of the men sporting little round glasses and swirled up moustaches, how French!

I cruised about the bizarre architecture of a city flattened in the forties and rebuilt in the 50s. I’m sure a more sophisticated eye can discern between French and Soviet brutalist styles, but not me. It felt very Eastern European indeed. Eglise St Joseph I disliked from the outside, but adored the interior of stained glass squares reaching up 100 metres. It wasn’t even sunny out but the effect was spectacular. The ‘volcano’ arts space opened in the 80s was another singular addition to the landscape. The town hall was not to my taste, but I didn’t mind the uniform blocky buildings lining the grid of streets well-serviced by bike paths.

Hélène’s home, up in the old town is one of the surviving older houses. Up two steep narrow wooden staircases was a cosy loft room with my name on it, for the next couple of nights anyway.

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