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Fabric Inspection is an important aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing to avoid rejects due to fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing. Fabric inspection is done for fault/defect rate, fabric construction, end to end or edge to edge shading, colour, hand or feel, length/width, print defect and appearance. Fabric inspection ensures to minimise the rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due to fabric faults. Cutting inspected and approved fabric ensures not only finished garment quality but also reduces rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries.

The purpose of fabric inspection is to determine the quality and acceptability for garments. As fabric is received, it should be inspected to determine acceptability from a quality viewpoint. Some garment manufacturers rely on their fabric suppliers to perform fabric inspection and fabric defects. In many small companies, spreading and cutting is done by the same personnel and fabric is inspected as it is being spread on a table for cutting.

Fabric inspection, mapping or marking defects is important prior to spreading and cutting because:

Spreading can be done more quickly because the spreader is not also inspecting the fabric.
A cutter's productivity will increase because the defects are already marked.
The patterns are cut around the defects so as not to include them in the finished garment.
Fabric inspection machines

Fabric inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machine. These machines are designed so that rolls of fabric can be mounted behind the inspection table under adequate light and rerolled as they leave the table.



Defects can be seen readily with these machines, as the inspector has a very good view of the fabric and the fabric need not be reversed to detect defects. These machines are power driven or the inspector pulls the fabric over the inspection table. The defects are located, marked and recorded on an inspection form. These machines are also equipped to accurately measure the length of each roll of fabric as well as monitor the width of the fabric. The variation in width of fabric can result in a higher cost of manufacturing for basic garments since profit margin for these garment manufacturers is usually lower than that for fashion garment manufacturers and therefore, maximum fabric utilisation is vital.

How much to inspect?

When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to conduct a full 100% inspection of the fabric. A minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading the fabric is recommended.

Fabric Inspection Systems

There are various fabric inspection systems:

10-Point System.
Graniteville "78" system.
Dallas system.
4- Point system.

4-Point System

The 4-Point System, also called the American Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA) point-grading system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC (American Society or Quality Control).

The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size and significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect. Defect can be in either length or width direction, the system remains the same. Only major defects are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects.

In this system, one should inspect at least 10 per cent of the total rolls in the shipment and make sure to select at least one roll of each colour way.


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