I Refuse to Buy Your $@#! I Make My Own.

Don't you love it when you buy something and find that the company rigged it so you need to buy something else? Here's my response. I used Prestige Oro plaster for this, but I think UltraCal would have worked great too.

Prestige Oro Investment Plaster: https://amzn.to/3hdGqhn
UltraCal Investment Plaster: https://amzn.to/3w1RhQQ
Flask: https://amzn.to/2U8QLmS
Flask base: https://amzn.to/3hbfEq4
Sprue wax: https://amzn.to/3dkWAEo

I wish I could edit videos after I see many of the comments! I should have mentioned:
- The shaft is 5/8", so a 1/2" chuck will not fit. Even my heavy duty drill isn't even close to being able to fit on that shaft.
-I wanted to maintain the option to use the handle in the future if needed, so changing the shaft to a hex with a grinder was not an option.
-There are many, MANY ways to overcome this problem. I have been experimenting with lost PLA casting, and wanted to try that method because it is reproducing a specific part from scratch, and it's fun. The idea is, when I come across a part in the future that is no longer available for sale, or is truly too expensive, then I could hopefully make it myself. I could have fabricated some other solution, but that method wouldn't be as versatile (or as easy to use once completed).
-In looking at the comments, I think people think this took me much longer than it actually did. After printing the part, all I had to do was attach the sprue, mix and pour the plaster, do the burnout, and then pour the metal. Since I did this in parallel with many other castings, I estimate 1 hour of labor.
-Regarding the electricity cost, I estimated as if I had fired this mold alone. In reality I fired many molds together, so the real electricity cost was maybe $1.
-Many think this is not a proprietary design, stating that this tapered fitting has been used on antique grinders. I wasn't aware of that. But either way, it is a poor design, as this isn't an antique. In modern times it's obvious that many people will want to motorize this. People seem to think without the taper it will wobble. It should be done the same way as a bicycle crank. They don't wobble, and could easily be adapted to a socket drive.

In the end, I did this because it was fun, and fit into the lost PLA casting technique that I have been learning. It is certainly not the quickest, cheapest, or most efficient way to overcome this problem!

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