Скачать или смотреть Building My Second Glass Crusher Part 2 of 7

This is part 2 of the fabrication of my second glass crusher / hammer mill design.

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Narration transcript:
Before I can assemble the inlet chute, I have to drill some holes to install the bearings. The bearings will support the rotating hammers that crush the glass. Before I can holes clear through, I need to drill starting divots with a carbide spot drill. These will guide the other drills so the holes will stay straight during drilling.

Here I am double checking to make sure the alignment is correct before I finish drilling the holes to size. The blue part I'm holding is the bearing assembly, known as a pillow block. Pillow blocks have a cast body with flanges to make mounting to a machine easy. This one is has a two hole flange. The bearing's inner race also has an extended lip with set screws to lock the axle in place.

Pilot holes are then drilled to ensure accurate size of finished holes, and also to reduce the pressure needed when cutting with larger drill bits.

The bottle of liquid you see is a water based cutting fluid. Cutting fluid is used to cool the drill, and also allows increased cutting speed and feed rate, which decreases machining time.

This is the finishing drill for the bolt holes. These holes will be used to bolt the pillow blocks to the inlet chute.

A large drill bit finishes the hole that will allow the axle to slide through the inlet chute and pillow blocks.

A quick check with dial calipers tells me the axle will fit with no interference.

Deburring removes small amounts of sharp metal on a machined edge, and leaves a smoother finish so you don't get cut while assembling parts. It is also done to make sure the bearing housing will fit snug to the plate.

Next I layout all the pieces of the inlet chute and mark each edge with a letter so I know where they are placed during welding.

I tack weld the sub assemblies, and then check them to make sure they are flat.

It is a good idea to grind off any mill scale from the parts so the welder gets a good ground connection. In this case, I use an angle grinder with a sanding disc, and then attach a magnetic grounding clamp.

I sit an angle plate on the top plate of the inlet chute, and then clamp a side of the inlet chute to that angle plate. This will keep the two parts square and stationary while I tack weld them.

Typically, only two or three tack welds are necessary to hold parts in place. Tack welds are used because they are fairly easy to remove in case you need to realign parts. They are also used to give the entire assembly enough rigidity to keep an accurate shape during welding.

At this point I install the bearing pillow blocks and a dummy axle to further help keep alignment during welding.

The lower front plate is checked for fit and a small amount of metal is ground down so the plate lines up better.

I push the plate in place with a steel block so that all the edges are flush.

Next, the bottom plate is positioned and tack welded.

I check the alignment of the bottom plate before further welding.

It is important to do a check of the entire assembly to make sure everything is in alignment before starting the final weld.

The joints need to be free of oil, so I wipe them down with mineral spirits, and then dry them off with an compressed air.

At this point, I can finish welding the inlet chute.

Now that the inlet chute is welded, I can move on to building the base and hooking up the drive motor.