Tacoma clutch master and slave cylinder

I'm currently in the process of upgrading my braking system again via the addition of an SC300 brake booster and brake master cylinder. While I am in the area however, I figured I would take advantage and replace my clutch master and slave cylinders. My clutch pedal has felt odd on a couple of outings, going so far as to drop down and keep me from being able to shift gears on a cold night. I basically said a prayer and hoped I could get home, and it suddenly started working. Needless to say, I feel like these parts are on their way out so I had brand new ones on the shelf waiting to replace them.

This process is pretty simple. I started by using a fluid transfer pump to completely drain the reservoir on the clutch master cylinder. From there, I undid the retaining clip and freed the pin that holds the lever from the master cylinder to the lever of the clutch pedal. Then, I undid the fluid line at the master cylinder using a 10mm line wrench. With that out of the way, removing two 12mm nuts at the firewall allowed for the master cylinder to be completely removed. Once that is done, the fluid line at the slave cylinder is undone with the same 10mm line wrench and its mounting bolts with the same 12mm socket wrench. Installation of the new components is literally the reverse of removal lol.

The real brainy process is the bleeding of the air from the lines. I used an assistant (the wife) for this. I had her pump the pedal several times and then had her hold it while I loosened several fittings. First, the fitting where the fluid line meets the master. I placed a rag below the fitting to catch any fluid that leaked out. Then, I would loosen it while she held the pedal down and listen to the sound of air escaping. Once actual fluid leaked out, I tightened the fitting, wiped off any brake fluid, then moved to the fitting on the slave. I did the same at this fitting, having my assistant pump and then hold the clutch pedal while I loosened the fitting. Once fluid came out of there a couple of times, I locked it down, wiped off any fluid and moved to the bleeder on the slave cylinder. This also uses the 10mm line wrench (thank you Toyota for the simplicity). At this fitting, I placed a clear hose going out to a water bottle. I repeated the pumping, hold, and loosen process until nothing but smooth, clear fluid was flowing through the tubing. During this entire process, I would periodically inspect the reservoir at the master and topped it off to ensure it did not run dry. Once I got nothing but fluid coming out of the slave cylinder, I ran an extra three cycles just for peace of mind, topped off the reservoir and installed the cap, and called it a night.