The Dead Sea Scrolls Trail: Could This Be the First Christian Community? Zahi Shaked

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Qumran: It’s well known as the site where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered in 1947. In this secluded spot near the Dead Sea, a treasure trove of parchment fragments was unearthed in a series of caves. These fragments were made up of books of the Bible, tractates on Law, and pieces of the Apocrypha.

On further analysis Qumran was found to have been inhabited by a group of Essene Jews during the Second Temple period. These Jews kept themselves separate from what they believed to a be a corrupt society. They formed their own small community, with strict attention to law and ritual purity.


A visit to Qumran is fascinating, but up until now, it hasn’t been much of an attraction for nature lovers. But recently, the Parks Authority opened up a new trail: The Scrolls Trail, a nature walk near the caves of Qumran towards the museum and antiquities.


On the Scrolls Trail.
This past Friday, we decided to head on down to Qumran, to explore the Scrolls Trail. Word on the street was that winter wildflowers were blossoming along the trail, so this was one of the attractions. Although the trail was short (it’s perfect for families), we found a way to extend the trail behind Qumran and into the mountains, along Nahal Qumran to the west.

Hiking the Scrolls Trail and Nahal Qumran in this way made for a full morning adventure, full of all sorts of different attractions. Here’s how we hiked in and around Qumran one Friday morning in the winter time:

Feeling Hazy
We got out of the car near Kibbutz Kalia and found our way onto the Scrolls Trail. From the get-go, the trail was well marked and evenly paved with wooden steps. Along the way were useful signs, explaining the history of Qumran and the people who lived there.

Looking up at caves where the scrolls were discovered.
I thought it was neat to see Qumran in this way. As opposed to parking and walking into a museum, we could see one of the actual caves where scrolls were hidden right before our eyes. Seeing the landscape, jagged and rugged, we could better imagine what the lives of those who lived there may have been like. We read everything there was to read, peeked in at the caves, and continued along the Scrolls Trail towards the ancient Qumran settlement.


Past a Flood Zone and into the Mountains
We followed the green trail up into the cliffs. Along the way, we passed by a massive stream bed, clearly washed out with force during the winter rains. Just as we neared the stream, we heard a booming voice over a loudspeaker from very far away, addressing the “two people hiking on the cliffs.” The Parks Ranger was warning us not to rappel into Nahal Qumran that day, as there was a risk of flash floods. We gave him a thumbs up and continued over the Nahal and on a tough ascent up into the cliffs.

Somehow, we hadn’t expected such a tough climb. But we were happy for the surprise. We climbed over craggy rocks, past the green undergrowth of long expired squill flowers. Every once in a while, we stopped at some viewpoint or another, surprised by how invisible the Dead Sea was under the cloud of winter fog and dust. We could just barely make out the water in a glint of sunshine.


We ascended past caves and over rock ledges, until we were walking right alongside the stream from up above. From this perspective, we could really imagine what sort of lives the ancient Jews of Qumran must have lived. Here, they were isolated between a salt sea and a river that only flows in the wintertime. Their cisterns must have gathered the plentiful rainfall that gushed through during rainy season.