How to Build Basic Snow Climbing Anchors Using Snow Pickets

Snow can be soft, dusty, wet, or rock hard. Because of the variability of snow conditions, building climbing anchors into the snow can be challenging. Here is how to choose between and then build a few anchor types using snow pickets, the most common tool we see on show climbs outside of our ice axes and crampons.


A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.


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You can find the SMC I Pickets seen in the video, here:
https://sovrn.co/n8u17n2


0:00 Intro
0:05 Bumper
0:14 Snow Anchors with Pickets
0:51 Anchor Ease vs Anchor Strength
1:14 Vertical Picket with Top Clip
2:49 Melt Out Risk
3:03 Removing Vertical Pickets
3:13 Vertical Picket with Mid-Clip
3:53 Horizontal T-Slot
4:42 Pre-Compacting the Snow
5:09 Adding Multiple Pickets
5:37 Adding a Person Into the System
6:00 Using an Axe Instead of a Picket
6:32 Outro


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