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“Just as the reign of Queen Elizabeth I would last into the first years of the seventeenth century, fashion trends of the 1590s would also endure into the new century. Daniel Delis Hill confirms this in The History of World Costume and Fashion (2011), writing that “at the beginning of the seventeenth century, women’s clothing retained many of the contours and design elements from the end of the previous century” (406).

François Boucher offers further details in his History of Costume in the West (1997):

“Elizabethan influence lasted until well after the death of the Queen in 1603. While some forms were inspired by the Continent… drum-farthingales and starched fan collars for women – the volume of the silhouette, the richness and stiffness of materials and the heavily loaded decoration kept the character of sixteenth-century modes. Until about 1620, women still wore embroidered jackets.” (273)
The foundation garment for all dress was the chemise, atop which women now wore stays to create the desirable silhouette of the time. We’re given a rare peek at early seventeenth-century stays in the portrait of Elizabeth Vernon, Countess of Southampton (…), who is shown dressing in a rather daringly informal portrait. As Anna Reynolds remarks in In Fine Style (2013): “The countess reveals her long-waisted pink stays beneath her unpinned waistcoat.” (41) Indeed dresses of this period relied heavily on pinning to stay together; on Elizabeth’s dressing table, a cushion full of pins to aid in dressing is visible.

Heavily embroidered bodices, or waistcoats in Vernon’s case, were typical of the period, with the English particularly specializing in floral embroidered pieces. A very fine surviving example from around 1600 in the Kyoto Costume Institute’s collection (…) features “roses, peas & beans, forget-me-nots, tulips, irises, carnations, and bellflowers, … birds, caterpillars, snails, spiders, and snakes.” Known as the Devereux Bodice, it is said to have been given to Queen Elizabeth as a gift as part of an unsuccessful plea for clemency by the mother of Robert Devereux, 2nd Earl of Essex (Kyoto).”

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https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/160...