How To Cut and Style Flat Top - Greg Zorian Haircut Tutorial

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By now everyone has seen Simon Cowell’s flattop that he make famous. Dark stubborn hair that does not want to stand up that easily. In this video learn the tricks of third generation master barber Greg Zorian uses to work with stubborn hair to give that perfect square flattop.

When cutting a flattop starting out on the sides instead of the top is key. You need to make sure the corners are tapered in so that when you cut the top it is not too wide and the corners have a tough time standing up. Start out on the sides and back with a 3 ½ metal blade on a detachable clipper similar to the oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR. Using slow strokes clipper up the sides and back of the head. Make sure when you get to the top you take an imaginary line straight up in the air until you run out of hair. This will create a fading and blending effect into the top so you do not have any heavy lines of demarcation to blend out. Complete this step all of the way around the head.

Next, use a 1 ½ blade around the outline of the haircut to start the tapered finish. While doing this you can touch up and blending into the top. Remember, when we start on the top we want the sides completed to make squaring off the top easier. The 1 ½ blade is a great tool for cutting and blending. By angling the blade to a 45 degree angle and running across the comb the blade will cut and blend at the same time avoiding the need for using the thinning shear over comb barbering technique to blend. Next, complete the tapered or faded outline. Use an adjustable clipper such as the Andis Envy, Andis Master, Wahl Designer, Wahl Senior, or Oster fast feed in the longest blade setting and use a scooping motion around the outline of the haircut to fade out. Repeat this step with lever adjusted halfway and then the shortest setting scooping the clipper a little bit lower each time to finish the taper. Last, use a t-outliner or trimmer to finish the haircut. Line off the sideburns and the diagonal line behind the ears without cutting into the natural hairline. On the back of the neck use an upward shaving motion without getting too close to the tapered or faded hairline.

Now cut the top. Apply a small amount of Zorian Of New York firm hold gel to damp hair and blow dry the hair standing straight up. This will smooth out all of the cowlicks and different growth patterns so you are cutting an even surface. In this case the hair is growing from front to back so start in the back. Round in the crown area first. Then cut from back to front keeping the comb parallel to the floor leaving the front longer to stand up. Repeat this step to the left and right. Touch up the corners making sure to keep the top square. Last, complete the style with the Zorian Of New York Shaping Paste. This is a very strong paste that will keep the hair standing up all day with a matte or dry looking finish.