How to plant advanced trees | Gardening Australia

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Trees can reduce the temperature in a house, bring privacy, increase home value, provide a play space, have health benefits, reduce noise, absorb carbon and put oxygen in the atmosphere! And choosing one is the biggest decision a gardener makes.

Damien has been growing trees all of his working life, he started at the nursery on work experience, and after 2 ½ decades is a partner in the business. Damien doesn’t remember why he chose the job: “My motivation is growing a tree that’s going to be here not just for my lifetime but for future generations; making sure every tree we grow is going to outlive us and benefit those who follow.”

Here they specialize in growing advanced trees, across 2 sites about an hour north of Melbourne.

Just like a puppy, a tree is for life and there are advantages of starting young! Small and seed grown trees are cheaper, establish quickly and have a reduced risk of transplant shock and being root bound. But sometimes you need a bigger tree, to provide instant screening or a feature and this is what these guys specialize in.

Modern growing techniques are reducing the risks to trees and increasing success for gardeners. Previously trees were field grown to maturity, then dug-up – a drastic disruption to its life. All stages of growth are now potted, in air-pruning containers that prevent plant roots circling. Damien believes no pot is perfect, but these improve the developing root system. As roots reach the air, they die off encouraging new side roots. It is just like tip-pruning branches.

Trees are checked and root-pruned every time they’re potted up. Damien documents all checks so he can follow each batch of trees. “It takes about 5 years to reach 100L, ‘semi advanced’ stage, 5-10 for an advanced tree.

Damien says if the tree is in a bag or pot at the nursery, feel how tight the root ball is, too tight may mean compacted roots. Ask the nursery if the tree meets the Australian standard for tree stock.

When choosing a tree form is also important, a tapering trunk, a well-balanced crown, not lopsided is what to look for. Look for 1/3 clear trunk to 2/3 head, which should be strong enough to stand without stakes.

When choosing a tree there are some obvious decisions to make – do you want fruit or flowers, evergreen or deciduous? How will it be when it is mature? And don’t forget the form….

Planting advice has also modernized over recent years, with soil amendments kept to a minimum & even the shape of the hole debated!

Damien says “The tree has to establish in what you have, so importing large amounts of topsoil or organic matter gives it a false sense of security. If your soil is heavy clay, blend in about 30% organic compost into the backfill soil”.

Clay breakers, gypsum, can also be beneficial “And if it’s really heavy soil then plant the tree proud - you can save a tree by adding water but it’s too late if it’s sitting in water and has root rot.”

Planting an Advanced Tree:

1. Dig a wok-shaped hole, sloping gradients on the sides.

2. About 3x the diameter of the root ball, but no deeper than the roots or it risks flooding. You can check the drainage of your soil by filling with water to see how fast it empties. 30mins+ means you have a drainage problem.

3. Cut down the sides of the root ball and remove any matted roots at the base, to make sure there’s no circling of roots.

4. Backfill 2/3 of the soil and water the fill rest and water again. Mound a ‘moat’ around the root zone to make sure water reaches the full depth of the roots and doesn’t run off. Never put soil on top of root ball.

5. Don’t plant groundcovers, bulbs or grass under establishing trees, much better to mulch and wait.

6. Stake if in a windy area, angling stakes away from tree at top, and making sure they reach the solid ground under hole.

Filmed on Wurundjeri Woi Wurrung Country | Lancefield, Vic

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