Скачать или смотреть Wave Faces: Meet San Diego Surfer, Mario Ordoñez-Calderón

"Surfing is a privilege. Surfing is a gift."

Encinitas-based Mario Ordoñez-Calderón sees surfing as a gift to be shared. He's an indigenous Mayan, Navy veteran and cofounder/executive director of the non-profit Un Mar de Colores, which means ‘an ocean of colors', which gives free surf lessons/therapy to children of color and underserved youth. "The organization was inspired by the gifts the ocean brought me," he said. "Calm, connection, community. I felt every kid should have the opportunity to experience the potential of that. We hope it ripples into their everyday life."

Given his experience with teaching, we asked Ordoñez-Calderón if he had any advice for folks learning to surf. "Slow down," he said. "It's so funny how fast a wave can seem when you're learning. You're like, 'paddle, paddle, paddle, pop-up!' And you're just on whitewash, like, 'that was so insane!' But once you actually learn how to surf, you put yourself in the right spot and ride for a lot longer. So if you can start that process of slowing down earlier, knowing that the wave's not gonna rush past you -- especially here in San Diego. Don't try to beat the wave. Work with it."

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