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Recipe: This video was created for UG2LS Students. Want to know how easy it is to make a 30HTLS recipe? For those of you who have experience making liquid soap and have made it up to this point in the UG2LS coursebook, join us as we make our Sunflower Bubbles 30-Minute Liquid Soap recipe below.
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Creating and formulating liquid soap recipes requires SO much more than following a recipe online or trying to learn from watching Youtube videos. Although these are great places to start, liquid soap making requires an understanding of the fundamentals of liquid soap science, including soap chemistry, soap physics, fatty acids, superfatting, soap phases, sodium and potassium alkalis, soap properties, in addition to a full understanding of the chemical and physical composition of fatty acid salts and how additives affect them.
For the best results and to learn how to make your own informed liquid soap recipes, including an in-depth and comprehensive overview of all the topics mentioned above (and so many more), please visit www.ultimateliquidsoap.com.
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Stop spending 10 hours on every batch of liquid soap.
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Complete instructions and guidance on how to make:
Cold Process Liquid Soap
Low-Temperature Liquid Soap
High-Temperature Liquid Soap
And our famous 30-Minute No-Paste Liquid Soap
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-If you are new to soap making, have not completed the UG2LS coursebook, or do not have experience working with soap at a higher temperature, please use a Cold Process and Low-Temperature Hot Process method instead, as this is a process and recipe designed for those with experience in the science and process of liquid soap making.
-Please follow all heat and lye safety protocols. The recipe must be adhered to and no additive or oil substitutions should be made unless you have experience formulating 30HTLS recipes.
-Starting temperature should be at 210-215F (99-106.7C)
-Your heating receptacle must allow for expansion and we recommend at least 3X the total base volume (oil+alkalis+water+glycerin)
-Use the continuous mixing process until the soap has reached cream phase, and then stop, cover, and allow to sit until soap-neutral.
-If after "cream" phase the soap becomes thicker and more jelly-like, rather than remaining in cream phase, this is ok, simply use your immersion blender to mix.
-Ensure that soap is soap-neutral before adding dilution water by using a zap-test or pH testing method
-Dilution temperature should be at 175-200F (79C-93C). If your dilution temperature is above the boiling point of water, it will bubble and water will evaporate, which hinders the dilution process
-We recommend a starting 32% soap concentration. This is the average saturation point of this recipe, less water may cause anhydrate soap. More water can be added if desired to create a lower soap concentration.
-After the recipe has cleared on the bottom post-dilution water, remove from the heat source and allow to completely cool to room temperature before proceeding with any next steps. This will allow you to adjust the soap concentration or hydrate an anhydrous soap.
-If a layer of anhydrate soap (white foamy goop) remains on top of the surface after the soap has completely cooled (soap must be room temperature, not warm, anhydrate soap will often dilute as it cools), you may remove and hydrate separately. Often this is due to variances in fatty acid composition and cooling at the surface.
-This recipe when diluted will produce a moderate viscosity soap due to the solvents and lauric/myristic fatty acid content. If you wish to have a thicker soap, do not decrease the water content, but rather add a thickening agent after production. Additional sodium chloride can be added in 0.1% increments.
-This recipe is made with a 2% lye discount and does not require any neutralization process or acidification
-The KOH for this recipe is calculated at 90%. If your potassium hydroxide is of a different purity, you must adjust your recipe accordingly.
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