DIY : HOW TO MAKE AN UNDER BURST BASQUE GOWN WITH GATHERS

Cutting and sewing an underbust princess dart basque gown with a gathered waistline requires precision and attention to detail. Here's a step-by-step guide:

Materials Needed

1.⁠ ⁠Fabric of choice (e.g., satin, silk or taffeta)
2.⁠ ⁠Measuring tape
3.⁠ ⁠Pattern-making paper or software
4.⁠ ⁠Ruler
5.⁠ ⁠Pencil and marker
6.⁠ ⁠Sewing machine and notions
7.⁠ ⁠Zipper or closure of choice
8.⁠ ⁠Interfacing (optional)
9.⁠ ⁠Boning (optional)

Pattern Making

Step 1: Take Measurements

1.⁠ ⁠Underbust circumference
2.⁠ ⁠Natural waist circumference
3.⁠ ⁠Hip circumference (approx. 7-9 inches below waist)
4.⁠ ⁠Gown length (desired)
5.⁠ ⁠Sleeve length (optional)
6.⁠ ⁠Princess dart placement

Step 2: Create Pattern Pieces

1.⁠ ⁠Front piece: Draw a princess dart, underbust silhouette and gathered waistline.
2.⁠ ⁠Back piece: Mirror the front piece or create a separate pattern.
3.⁠ ⁠Sleeve piece (if applicable)
4.⁠ ⁠Side panel piece (for basque seaming)
5.⁠ ⁠Waistband piece (optional)

Step 3: Add Seam Allowances

1.⁠ ⁠1/4 inch (6 mm) for side seams
2.⁠ ⁠1/2 inch (1 cm) for waistband and hem

Cutting Fabric

Step 1: Lay Out Fabric

1.⁠ ⁠Fold fabric in half lengthwise (right sides together).
2.⁠ ⁠Align pattern pieces.

Step 2: Cut Fabric

1.⁠ ⁠Cut two front pieces (mirrored).
2.⁠ ⁠Cut two back pieces (mirrored).
3.⁠ ⁠Cut side panel pieces (two for each side).
4.⁠ ⁠Cut sleeve pieces (if applicable).
5.⁠ ⁠Cut waistband piece (if using).

Sewing

Step 1: Construct Basque

1.⁠ ⁠Sew front and back pieces together at side seams.
2.⁠ ⁠Insert boning (if using).
3.⁠ ⁠Attach zipper or closure.

Step 2: Create Princess Dart

1.⁠ ⁠Fold dart allowance inward.
2.⁠ ⁠Sew along folded edge.
3.⁠ ⁠Press dart flat.

Step 3: Gather Waistline

1.⁠ ⁠Sew gathering stitches along waistline.
2.⁠ ⁠Gather fabric to desired tightness.
3.⁠ ⁠Secure gathering stitches.

Step 4: Add Sleeves (if applicable)

1.⁠ ⁠Sew sleeve pieces together.
2.⁠ ⁠Attach sleeves to gown.

Step 5: Finish Seams

1.⁠ ⁠Sew side seams.
2.⁠ ⁠Add interfacing (if using).

Tips and Variations

1.⁠ ⁠Use a walking foot or Teflon foot for smooth fabric feeding.
2.⁠ ⁠Adjust princess dart placement for varying effects.
3.⁠ ⁠Experiment with different fabrics, textures and colors.
4.⁠ ⁠Add embellishments (e.g., lace, trim).
5.⁠ ⁠Consider adding a lining or contrasting facing.

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