Do You Use Expensive Materials or Cheaper Solutions When Painting?

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Hi, it’s Tony with another live stream. We’re going to discuss this topic today, Do You Use Expensive Materials or Cheaper Solutions When Painting?

Thank you for getting on tonight. We’ll talk about paint materials. Have you experimented with different brands? I would test out different brands just to see how they were.

Some paint companies died down because they didn’t have the marketing power to stay in business. But, some are really bad.

When you’re painting, you’ll notice dye back on cheaper clears. When I first did a review of the Advantage, I gave it a 7 out of 10. After using it a few times, I noticed that it wasn’t that good. This brand is good for getting jobs out, when you’re doing shop jobs.

You could test both the high end clear coat and cheaper one on two cars and wait for two weeks. The high end clear like House of Kolor, will have a nice gloss. You’ll get a very low dye back, unlike cheaper clears where it starts to get dull.

But, if you color sand and buff the cheaper clears like the Advantage, it will like look just like the House of Kolor. You won’t tell the difference. A lot of body shops use the cheap clear unless you monitor their work every day.

I am speaking to someone right now about an unknown European brand. They will be sending me some clear coat to test with. They say it’s top of the line for a lot less money.

Once they send it over, I’ll do some reviews and let you know how it went. They’ll send me a bunch of materials. I will never recommend bad products. I always recommend quality materials at lower price, gives value to your money, and products that I will use myself.

I used the Miata and the BMW with House of Kolor. You can see the difference in shine. I might be getting a 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata. We’re still in the process of closing the deal.

Question: What do you mean by cut?

A cut means when you color sand and buff to get mirror finishes like in any car shows. Mind you, these show cars go under intensive color sanding and buffing processes.

My buffing pads are from Buff And Shine. It’s a good product. It’s all made in California. I’m going to start reselling them on the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint Shop Page, so you can order them at a very good price. I will also be relisting a lot of my products on Amazon, so that’s really awesome.

My mini-truck is in the other garage because I’m doing some buffing on the Miata and the BMW.

If you’re doing final stage detailing and buffing on a car, make sure that it’s not near a car that you’re going to do some body work and paint on.

You get some splatter with the compounds and contaminates the air a little bit causing some chemical reactions.

The last time we talk about buffing, I forgot to talk about buffing speed. You want to start buffing at about 1500 RPM to get the compound in.

When you’re actually buffing, a good speed is around 1700-1775 RPM. When you’re doing the foam pad, you could lower it down to 1500 because the foam pad gets hot quick and you don’t need a lot of power to glass it out.

Question: Don’t you think Harbor Freight is good for a one-time paint job?

It’s not just a one-time paint job. It’s how the gun is going to perform. I would not use a Harbor Freight Spray Gun or any of those cheap kits that you can get for $80.

I went to a VIP member’s house last week. His name is Paul and he’s Australian, an Aircraft Mechanic. He’s a very, very nice guy.

He will be painting his Cessna 150 in his two-car garage. Check out the video as I show you his plane.

He’s going to be using a special aircraft paint. He has a special primer, which is a pretty thin primer. He told me that the regulations are pretty strict.

After painting every panel, it has to be weighed and balanced. Each side of the wing should be balanced. He’s doing a single-stage paint with no clear coat.

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