The Strength you need to Climb 9c - Crack Edition

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Check out the crack climbing tests and crack dimensions below

CRACK TYPE - Perfect hands
Everyones hand size is different, so you will have to find the correct 'perfect hands' for you. In general perfect hands is 2 inches. Just make sure you can tuck your thumb fully inside your palm and your hand is in a cup position.
- Don't make it tight hands i.e. where your hand is fully inside the crack but you can't tuck your thumb into your palm (this will be too easy).
- Don't make it cupped hands i.e. where your hand is inside the crack but your hand is really cupped out (this will be too hard)
- Don't make it thin or paddle hands i.e. where you can't get all of your thumb pulp into the crack (this will be too hard)

CRACK DIMENSIONS we used - 2 inches wide, 5.5 inches deep

CRACK POSITIONING - have it placed in a horizontal roof (like a roof crack)

Test 1:
5 second max hang from a jam
- 1 Point = 100% (bodyweight)
- 2 Points = 110%
- 3 Points = 120%
- 4 Points = 130 %
- 5 Points = 140 %
- 6 Points = 150%
- 7 Points = 160%
- 8 Points = 180%
- 9 Points = 200%
- 10 Points = 220%

Test 2:
One rep max pull up off a jam
- 1 Point = 100% (bodyweight)
- 2 Points = 110%
- 3 Points = 120%
- 4 Points = 130 %
- 5 Points = 140 %
- 6 Points = 150%
- 7 Points = 160%
- 8 Points = 180%
- 9 Points = 200%
- 10 Points = 220%

Test 3:
Core body exercise off a jam
- 1 Point = 5 sec hang bent knees
- 2 Points = 10 sec hang bent knees
- 3 Points = 5 sec hang in L-sit
- 4 Points = 10 sec hang in L-sit
- 5 Points = 5 sec half lever
- 6 Points = 10 sec half lever
- 7 Points = 5 sec straddle lever
- 8 Points = 10 sec straddle lever
- 9 Points = 5 sec front Lever
- 10 Points = 10 sec front lever

Test 4:
Hang from a jam
- 1 Point = 30 sec
- 2 Points = 1 min
- 3 Points = 1 min 30 sec
- 4 Points = 2 min
- 5 Points = 2 min 30 sec
- 6 Points = 3 min
- 7 Points = 3 min 30 sec
- 8 Points = 4 min
- 9 Points = 5 min
- 10 Points = 6 min

Points:
40=9c
39=9b+
38=9b
37=9b
36=9a+
35=9a+
34=9a
33=9a
32=8c+
31=8c+
30=8c
29=8c
28=8b+
27=8b+
26=8b
25=8b
24=8a+
23=8a+
22=8a
21=8a
20=7c+
19=7c+
18=7c
17=7c
16=7b+
15=7b+
14=7b
13=7b
12=7a+
11=7a+
10=7a
9=7a
8=6c+
7=6c+
6=6c
5=6c
4=6b
3=6b
2=6a
1=6a

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Recovery Drink Footage - Talo Martin, (Instagram @talomartin)
Music - Bensound.com

🕘Timestamps:
0:00 Test 1 - Max hang
6:30 Test 2 - Max pull up
11:14 Test 3 - Core body test
15:05 Test 4 - Max hang
25:54 The Results


#crackclimbing #4k #climbing