Скачать или смотреть Diy COB Led Grow Light Vero 18 Meanwell Driver

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4 - Bridgelux Vero 18 Gen 7 3500k Leds on a Meanwell HLG-185H-C1050B driver pulling 135 actual watts from wall (dimmable to about 18w)

Plus 8 -Bridgelux Vero 18 Gen 7 3500k Leds on a Meanwell HLG-240-C1050B driver pulling 265w from wall (dimmable to 35w)

For a total of 400 actual watts over a 2ft x 4ft area, or 50w/ft^2.

Each cob is mounted on a single Mechatronix passive cooling heat sink.

UPDATE 11/3/17

So after using this light for a full run, here are my thoughts.

First of all, I made this project way more difficult than it needed to be! This was my first build and here's what id change:

1. Go with Vero SE! It's the same led, but all you have to do is insert the +/- wires directly into the cob. The regular Vero uses molex wiring harnesses, and they are a joke. They take forever to wire and end up falling out of the socket half the time!

2. Design for canopy coverage, not just power. More LEDs at lower power are more efficient and give better coverage. For this reason, I've since redesigned this light by further spacing out the Vero 18s, then adding numerous Vero 10s at 500ma on 2.079" heatsinks from heatsinkusa.

3. Use the thicker 3/4" angled aluminum stock for the frame and get different heatsinks. I did what I did because the mechatronix heatsinks don't have holes on the sides for mounting. For more plug and play, use the sst120 heatsink from northern grow lights or cutter (expensive/easy option). Or (for the cheaper/more diy option), go with heatsinks from heatsinkusa. Growmau5 has a video on how to calculate what you need. HSUSA is the route I'd take because I'm cheap and don't mind drilling holes...

A couple more things I've gathered from using LEDs.

1. I don't always run the lights on maximum power. More doesn't always equal better. Since I don't have a par meter, I generally shoot for:

15-25watts/SQ foot in early to mid veg, 25-30w/SQ ft late veg to early flower, and 35-40w/square foot mid to late flower.

Anything more than 40w and plants need supplemental co2, precise environment control and watering/nutrient needs increase. Temp (even with LEDs) can become an issue. So keep it simple and start small until you really dial in your environment and learn the plants needs.

2. Light spacing is between 16-24" from canopy.

3. Buy the largest grow tent you can get away with. It makes controlling the environment much easier and provides room to grow in. Plants generally do better when temps/humidity aren't constantly fluctuating. Plus I hate cramped spaces.

4. I've changed my grow style to maximize canopy surface area. You can use SOG, SCROG or even both. SOG (sea of green) is a lot of smaller plants spaced close together, flowered young. Right now I use SCROG (screen of green) for fewer, but larger plants because I can legally only have 6 plants growing at a time. I top once or twice early, then selectively prune the lowest/least productive branches through late veg. After 5-8 weeks veg I switch to flower, then begin training the branches through 3" trellis netting to create a nice even canopy. Less pruning is better, and there's much debate about doing it at all, as it can stress plants, but I find it easier to water and maintain adequate airflow in my grow space. Just make sure you're not doing any pruning after week 2 or 3 of flowering at the very latest.

4. Look into leaf surface temperature and VPD to dial in your plants environment. I had so many issues disappear once I figured this out.

Last, but not least! Remember that most of what you read on forums or see in videos is anecdotal (that goes for me too, I guess). Just keep growing, taking notes and learning from your plants!

For more information on how I built this I'd suggest you watch the Growmau5 diy led videos, or drop me a questions in the comments. If anyone is interested I can drop part #s and suppliers I used as well. Thanks for watching!