Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167 Luxury Watch Review

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Behold the "speedster" of the Patek Philippe sports watch family. The Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167 sports model reads like the "Speedster" models occasionally offered to Porsche's best clientele; stripped down, all action, and blessed with serious performance potential.

Unencumbered by the somewhat patrician hauteur of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the more modern 40mm stainless steel Aquanaut is a vigorous alternative with every refinement of its older stablemate.

First launched in 1997 as the first Patek Philippe equipped with a rubber strap, the Aquanaut caused both a scandal and a sensation on its debut. For 2007, this Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167 shown here was released as a tenth-anniversary upgrade of its increasingly iconic bad-boy sports model.

Improvements include a less crowded dial, a more refined "geosphere" guilloche pattern on the dial base, a date that moves outboard to supplant the numeral "three," and a new strap with enhanced texture, and a more elegant skeletonized twin-trigger clasp.

While the case and bezel of the Aquanaut exhibit inescapable family resemblance to the seminal Nautilus, the 5167 is very much its own watch. Far less massive than the modern 5712, the Aquanaut wears with a delightful lightness that rivals the finest ultra thin dress models.

Only 8.5mm thick and 46.5mm from lug to lug, the Aquanaut 5167 is the ultimate Patek Philippe sports watch for those with smaller wrists or a taste for elegant packaging. Needless to say, the black-and-steel color palette of the Aquanaut combine with its svelte profile to create the ultimate dual-mode work/play workhorse.

And don't be afraid to get wet and wild with the Patek Philippe Aquanaut. Any watch with "Aqua" in its name should be ready to take the plunge, and the 5167 delivers; 120m/400ft water resistance is on call when needed. The free-slung Patek Philippe Gyromax balance ensures timing stability when the going gets rough. And the outstanding Patek Philippe natural rubber strap features generous inner relief channels to prevent sweat, heat, and grit from becoming trapped during vigorous activities.

More than a timekeeper, the Patek Philippe caliber 324 SC is a masterpiece in its own right. This example features the newer Patek Philippe seal, and the standard of finish gives the old Geneva Hallmark a breathless run for its money. It's appealing to the eye, but a loupe is required to inspire awe; this movement holds up when subjected to ruthless scrutiny. Only 3.3mm thick, entirely hand-made and hand finished, and blessed with a vast display case back, the caliber 324 SC is proof that Patek Philippe's "bad boy" sports watch has a heart of gold.

See this stainless steel Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167 in high-resolution images on www.thewatchbox.com.

Video and content by Tim Mosso.