Скачать или смотреть Everest 1996: The Mountain Madness Oxygen Situation

This video explores the pivotal role of oxygen management in the tragic 1996 Everest expedition, focusing on the Mountain Madness team. A critical last-minute decision by lead Sherpa Lopsang altered the team’s oxygen plan: he opted to leave one Sherpa, Pemba, at South Col rather than having him join the summit push with additional oxygen. This uncommunicated change left guides like Anatoli Boukreev and Neal Beidleman unaware of the reduced oxygen supply on the descent. As a result, Boukreev and Beidleman believed they had ample oxygen cached at South Summit for their six clients, but they actually faced a shortage.

As the team summited, Boukreev and Beidleman continued to believe oxygen supplies were intact. Boukreev, aiming to prepare camp for the team’s return, rushed back to South Col to melt snow for drinking water. Upon arrival, he discovered Pemba in camp with two of the missing oxygen bottles, creating an unexpected situation that affected the guides' response to the oxygen deficit during the descent.

The video analyzes how the oxygen miscommunication exacerbated the team's vulnerability in the worsening weather. Boukreev’s decision to descend first, Beidleman’s prolonged stay at the summit, and the missing oxygen bottles all became critical factors as conditions worsened. The analysis concludes that while Boukreev accurately reported the logistical details, he may have underestimated the impact of supplemental oxygen for clients and guides alike in these extreme conditions. The video frames this as a key contributor to the difficulties faced by the Mountain Madness team, adding new insight into the broader tragedy.

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