How to: Volvo C30 S40 V50 C70 Right Axle Replacement

How to replace the passenger side or right axle on a Volvo C30. Similar procedure can also be found on the S40, V50, and C70 models. Typically a dry or worn cv joint can cause vibrations under acceleration or at certain speeds, create a clicking noise, and then having a growling noise similar to a bearing depending on the severity. After extensive searching, while some people have had good experience with aftermarket units, it should also be mentioned that issues with aftermarket units is quite common unfortunately. This can include vibrations, the shaft sheering after the spline, and premature failures. I spoke a couple different axle and driveshaft rebuilders, unfortunately they did not list rebuild kits for the cv joints. I then emailed GKN directly who is the factory manufacturer for these Volvo axles, but they do not offer rebuild kits either and unfortunately the automatic and manual vehicles list different part number. If you are in Europe, then you can use the Ford Focus ST axle which apparently from what I’ve found is a direct fit. However by the time an exchange rate was applied, along with shipping and import taxes, it wasn’t worth it for me. You can also go with a used route, but the life expectancy can be unknown. So instead I took the plunge and bought an OEM unit from the dealer. #volvo #volvoc30 #volvos40

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-T25 driver
-T30 driver
-10mm socket
-10mm wrench
-21mm socket
-13mm socket
-ball joint separator
-pry bar
-oil pan
-gear oil
-dead blow hammer
-torque wrench

Procedure:
-elevate the front of the vehicle, remove the wheel, and use a jack stand
-remove the 3 T25 torx screws on the rear of the fender liner
-then remove the 5 T25 torx screws at the front of the liner
-remove the two 10mm plastic nuts on the inside of the fender liner behind the strut assembly
-remove the one T30 torx screw for the belly pan
-to remove the fender liner, pull the inside portion behind the strut back towards you, pull down, and then pull out
-remove the 21mm nut for the lower ball joint
-remove the 13mm in the center of the spindle
-to break the ball joint free, use a ball joint separating tool
-using a pry bar between the control arm and sway bar, pull the control arm down to disconnect the ball joint
-pull the spindle assembly away from the axle to separate the spline
-remove the bearing retaining clamp for the axle bearing, it uses two 10mm bolts
-place an oil pan under the transaxle where the axle sits to catch any dripping oil
-now remove the axle
-to remove the bearing clamp which maybe stuck in place, use a dead blow hammer to tap it off
-apply a light amount of gear oil to the spline and where the seal seats
-reinstall the axle and align it’s position with the bearing carrier
-next is pushing the control arm down to reinstall that ball joint. For this I pushed it down by hand, then insert something between the sway bar and control arm. Then use the pry bar to push it down further and reinstall the ball joint.
-install the axle spline back into spindle assembly and you can use the bolt to help draw it back into place
-the torque spec for this bolt is 26 ft lbs or 35mn and then once that torque valve has been achieve, tighten the bolt an additional 90 degrees
-install the bearing clamp, the torque specs for these bolts is about 7.5 ft lbs or 10nm
-reinstall the ball joint nut and the torque specs are 52 ft lbs or 70nm
-reinstall the fender liner, wheel, and you’re done

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