Скачать или смотреть Penetrating damp ground level

External wall remedial actions (nb deal with external side first)

1) Trench created to depth just lower than internal floor
2) Trench supported with paving slabs so a few cm stands proud above ground - this will act as a 'lip' to prevent rain running into the trench. You can also put a roof over this later.
3) Wall side of trench lined with lead flashing.
4) Entire trench lined with damp proof membrane - it should resemble a 'U' in cross section - the lead flashing will overlap it
5) Trench filled with shingle 10-20 mm. These have capillary action to lock in water to the trench rather than the wall.

Deal with internal wall AFTER external wall

1) Remove all plaster to bare brick from ground upwards to at least 50 cm height above visible damp (you will need to remove skirting).
2) Let the wall dry out - preferably do this work in summer - it may take a few weeks to properly dry out - it MUST dry out before proceeding.
3) Once dry, apply SBR bonding solution e.g. Everbuild to brick and leave to dry overnight
4) Plaster base coat is applied - use a Limebased plaster e.g. Tarmac 'Limelite' - Important; do not plaster the bottom 5 cm of the wall otherwise it will allow damp to creep higher. Don't worry when the skirting is replaced it will cover that gap.
5) Allow plaster to dry out
6) Coat again with SBR bonding compound and allow to dry overnight*
7) Skim with Limebased finishing plaster e.g. Tarmac 'High Impact Finish'
8) Allow plaster to dry i.e. no damp patches before painting
9) Use an emulsion paint - base coat may need diluting to 'take'

further SBR can be applied prior to finishing plaster - the SBR should be tacky or dry at this stage

Regarding Angle beading - use plastic/PVC to avoid moisture tracking up behind plaster that may be experienced with metal angle beading

This process may take days to weeks - it is very important for drying out at the various stages or you lock in damp and it will fail