Скачать или смотреть Goulotte Chéré | 29/01/2024

Due to the high temperatures down in the valleys, we were forced to change our waterfall-ice climbing plans and head to Chamonix (what a shame, right?). Before committing to harder routes and to acclimatize a bit, we decided to tick off one of the biggest classics here: Goulotte Chéré.

As expected, we were not the only ones with this plan; however, I guess with a total of four teams it was still quite acceptable. I have read worse stories about traffic in this route so no complaining there. We did decide to not swap leads to be a bit more efficient in a three-man team.

To save some money, we opted for the "pas du pietons", which meant we had to hike down from the Aiguille du midi. Not that I'm complaining about having to walk ;), but it did result in arriving only third at the bottom of the route. On top of that, the guide arriving after us didn't fancy waiting which caused a bit of a mess at the start. Luckily we were able to climb a bit faster so this was only a bit annoying in pitches 0 and 1. No problems for the last two (more technical) pitches.

In general the climbing was very enjoyable. In some places the ice was very hard; however, most of the time it was chopped out so you could just hook in the existing holes. Some less steep parts had super nice firn.

Protection was generally easy. The ice was thick enough for screws (Petzl yellow) and there are many cracks in the rock to the side for some medium sized cams. Ankers are all bolted. Miel did make one ice-belay after pitch two (pitch three if you include the approach pitch) as the stand to the side was too crowded.

Chapters:
00:00 Approach
02:14 Pitch 0
02:52 Pitch 1
04:44 Pitch 2
06:13 Pitch 3
07:53 Descent
08:52 Back to Aiguille du midi

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