Shaping Bespoke Shoe Lasts by Hand & Machine

The third installment of our Bespoke Shoe series shows how the wooden shoe lasts are constructed: https://gentl.mn/creating-last-bespok...

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00:00 Creating Your Last Introduction

n our third installment of my bespoke shoe journey with St. Paul Minnesota shoemaker Amara Hark Weber, we discuss a very important step of the bespoke shoemaking process, where you will, at last, know what a last is and how it is made.

00:32 What Is A Last?

Basically, it’s the thing you build a shoe around. It is modeled after the human foot, not an exact copy. For a ready-to-wear-made factory shoe, typically, the lasts are made out of plastic. It also comes in many different sizes, so you can just make the shoes.

It’s important to keep in mind that different shoemakers can make lasts in very different ways. We’ll take a look at how Amara Hark Weber did her last and see what we can learn about lasts from her.

02:42 Sourcing the Last Materials

First of all, you have to source the last material. Typically, it’s made of wood, but what kind of wood depends on the companies you work with. A last has to be a sturdy thing. Why? Well, it’ll get wet, see nails, get hammered on, get sanded, and it just has to stand the test of time. It’s very important for a last to maintain its shape. Otherwise, the final shoe will be compromised.

04:12 Modifying a Blank Last

Amara uses blanks because it’s much more cost-efficient. She used to buy a vintage shoe last, would modify them, then have new base lasts made based on the desired look she wanted.

08:29 Shaving Down a Built-Up Last

After the leather has dried, it has to be cut and then shaved off to be part of the last. Typically, there are two ways to do that. One is to use a rasp and shave it down by hand, the other is to use a machine. I’m sure your shoemaker will have their own preference. Amara prefers the machine because it is faster and always very precise for her. Specifically, Amara uses a finishing machine that has a grinder with sandpaper on it.

11:37 Getting to Work

Once everything is in place, it’s time to start shaping the last and the leather on the finishing machine. The main job here is to get the last to a point where the fit is good.

She constantly uses her measurements, the pedograph, and her notes to see if what she’s doing aligns with the foot. She can take all the sensitivities, your bones, your sensitive areas into consideration that way. Also, if you have a slim and bony foot, she may make different decisions on the last design as if you have more of a fleshy foot.

As she continues to work, Amara makes it look very easy, but it requires a lot of concentration and experience, and skill. Amara largely taught herself last making, so it’s a mix of intuition, trial and error, and influx from other shoemakers and last makers.

Amara paid particular attention to the joint and the shape and rise of the arch. She does that because those are some of the most important for comfort and fit. Frankly, she was double checking, triple checking, and it took quite a while, but she just wanted to get it 100% right.

16:13 After Creating The Lasts, Shoemaking Begins

Once the last is done, the shoemaking process can start; except some shoemakers start with a trial shoe, others work right away on the real thing. Of course, there are pros and cons to both.