Perfect Coverstitch Hemming: 7 Tips That Makes A Huge Difference

Want to learn the best way to hem on a coverstitch? Without skipped stitches and a perfectly shaped hem. Then follow this easy step-by-step tutorial.

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1. Prepare for hemming
Make sure the edges of the fabric are evenly cut. I prefer to use a rotary cutter when cutting since it makes it so much easier to get those edges even.

To make hemming easier over bulky seams, clip the side seams at the fold and lay the clipped seam in the opposite direction. Just make sure that the cut is very small and that the seam you are using is sturdy enough to withstand a little clip.

2. FOLD THE HEM
On materials that can take a little heat, ironing the fold is recommended as it makes hemming easier.

Tips for keeping the fold in place
● Don’t over-pin when coverstitching, just add a few and remove them before you’ll get too close to the machine.
● Wonder clips (pictured above) are another option.
● You can also hand-baste the hem using large and loose stitches.
● With practice, you’ll likely be able to hem using just your fingers to keep the fold even.

3. START SEWING
Always begin at the back of the garment, just after the side seam. Pull all the threads back and to the left before you start sewing to make sure they don’t get snagged once you start sewing.
● Use a seam guide for an even hem if your machine lacks a built-in ruler.
● You can also use a piece of Lego attached with some sticky pads/Blu Tack to help you sew straighter.
● Another tip is to gently guide the fabric, but do not pull, to make sure it is evenly fed to avoid twisted seams.

4.SEWING OVER BUMPY SEAMS
If the surface is bumpy and the presser foot is tilted upwards or down, such as when stitching over a seam allowance, the feeding will suffer and the machine will have a harder time forming even stitches. That is why I recommend folding the seam allowance in opposite direction before sewing.

If the machine still struggles try to insert a
Insert a hump-jumper (height compensation tool) under the presser foot to level it when sewing over bulky seams.

Keep the hump-jumper in place until you´ve reached the end of the bump. Then remove it and keep sewing

You can also try to temporary increase the differential feed and/or the stitch length and see if this improves the feeding.


5. FINISH THE SEAM
If you are sewing on the round, sew over the beginning stitches for a couple of centimetres (an inch or less).

To secure, the pull method is usually the best way to secure a coverstitch seam.

1● If hemming on the round, pull the needle threads apart before overlapping
2 ● Overlap the stitches for about 2 cm (slightly less than an inch)
3 ● Sew the last stitch using the handwheel and then stop at the highest needlepoint.
4 ● Lift the presser foot
5 ● Use a crochet hook, an awl or tweezers to pull the needle thread towards you
6 ● Clip the threads
7 ● Grab the fabric but do not pinch the threads
8● Pull the fabric diagonally towards the back and to the left
This will pull the needle threads to the reverse side and secure the stitch.
9 ● For extra safety tie another knot on the reverse side to make sure the seam is 100% secured and will hold up over time
10 ● Trim away all the threads


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