Скачать или смотреть No Heating No Hot Water Fix!

Welcome back to the channel on today’s video I’m gonna be fixing a house which has no heating and no hot water!

I’m suspecting that the pump has failed as it’s making a lot of noise and the boiler is getting hot but I have no circulation to the pump. I tried to adjust the auto bypass and that started leaking at me!

Because the heating controls is downstairs in the cupboard I would like to fit a isolation valve so I can fully control the heating controls and in the future if anything fails I don’t have to drain the whole system to work on.

So first thing first is to isolate the boiler and heating controls so they don’t turn on when I drain the system of water. With the power isolated I can then put a drain hose on the drain off valve and continue to drain all the system water pressure out as it’s a pressurised system. If you don’t have a filling loop or expansion vessel tank then you will have a gravity fed system so you will need to either shut off the cold water feed or turn the mains off and that will stop the tank from filling.

After a few minutes of gurgling noises you can vent the radiators and release all the air to fully drain the system to be able to work on it. To change a heating pump I like to cut through the valve bodies as most of the time the nuts are seized onto the pump and it’s the quickest way I find. With the old nuts and olives off and the pipes cleaned up input the new valves on to make sure the distance was correct between for the new pipe as you can get different pumps with different sizes. My luck had to be that it was different so I decided to de solder a pipe out the tee to make longer as the nut was too close to the clips anyway and solder a new stub of pipe to suit the size of the pump.

Now that the valves will fit the pump and the copper I can install it with rubber washers and connect the electric connector I wired up while the system was draining. The bypass was a different size so I had to cut the pipework and alter that aswell due to the internal distances being different.

With the 2 heating parts changed and pipework adapted I cut 2 isolation valves in, one on the drop of the return so I can isolate the system fully and one before the air vent as that will allow me to swap to a auto if needed. After the work is complete simply do all in reverse with the drain down and fill the system and vent all radiators with the pressure left at 1-1.5bar.

Time to test the pump and system using a thermal imaging camera and you can see that all the pipework gets hot and the image shows even through insulation and walls in certain circumstances. I hope you have got something from this video, if you have please give it a like, subscribe if you are new and please comment down below any methods you have or would have done differently. I’ll see you on the next one!